by Ed Walsh

Buenos Aires sports a gay-friendly, continental flair right in our own hemisphere

Gay tourism isn’t showing any signs of slowing down in the Paris of South America. Hotel Axel, a spectacular five-star gay hotel, opened in Buenos Aires just three months ago, and the city continues to be a magnet for gay tourists seeking a destination with the acceptance and sophistication of a European city without the price tag that now comes with travel in Europe.

European flavor permeates much of Buenos Aires. Argentina’s capital borrows its architectural style from its European immigrant population, with French, Spanish, Italian and English architecture throughout downtown.

Unlike Europe, however, the dollar still goes far in Buenos Aires. While prices have gone up since the Argentinian currency collapse in 2002, the city still remains one of the best values for Americans who have seen their currency deteriorate against the euro, British pound and the Canadian dollar.

The European influence in Buenos Aires is also reflected in its gay-positive laws and attitudes. In 2003, Buenos Aires became the first city in South America to enact a civil unions law. The city of 3 million supports dozens of gay and gay-integrated bars and nightclubs, and a handful of gay hotels.

Buenos Aires even has its own gay travel agency, Pride Travel. It’s a great one-stop shop for all things gay in the city. The agency offers gay-specific tours of the city. Its website will soon include a free posting service for visitors looking for traveling companions. Drop-ins to the downtown office are welcome Monday-Friday from 10 a.m.-2 p.m. and 3-6:30 p.m.

The Sights

Downtown Buenos Aires is punctuated by the Obelisk monument in the middle of Avenida 9 de Julio (Avenue 9th of July). It looks something like a smaller Washington Monument and is a great help in getting your bearings in the city.

Avenida 9 de Julio is named for Argentina’s Independence Day and bills itself as the widest street in the world. It runs north to south, cutting the city in two. Hundreds of old homes had to be bulldozed to build the boulevard, which opened in 1937. The Casa Rosada is where the president of Argentina works, although—unlike the White House—the president does not live there. The building’s presidential museum is open to the public, but the famous balcony where Evita Perón rallied for her husband, President Juan Perón, is closed to the public.

There is no gay neighborhood in Buenos Aires, but the Barrio Norte and the San Telmo neighborhoods near the city’s center have a large number of gay people. San Telmo also happens to be the birthplace of the Tango.

There are a wide variety of bus, walking and even boat tours available in Buenos Aires. As long as it’s not raining, a bicycle tour is a great way to see the sights. On a recent visit, I took a four-hour bicycle tour offered by Bike Tours. It went by most of the main attractions in the city and was a great history lesson.

If you prefer to do it yourself, Buenos Aires’ official tourism website includes 12 circuit maps of the city’s neighborhoods. You can print out the maps and download an audio tour that corresponds to each circuit. The service is free.

Accommodations

The crown jewel of gay tourism in Buenos Aires is the newly opened five-star Hotel Axel in the San Telmo neighborhood. Billed as “heterofriendly,” the Axel is in a brand-new building that opened on Halloween 2007. It includes 48 rooms, a ground floor outdoor pool and a rooftop indoor pool. The roof pool has a glass bottom that can be seen from the lobby, five floors below. The elevators and the stairs are also glass. Current high-season rates (October-April) start at $206 per night.

On the other end of the budget scale, but also in San Telmo, is Lugar Gay (the name means “gay place”), with eight rooms and some shared baths. Amenities include a Jacuzzi, small workout area and a couple of sun decks with views of San Telmo. Unlike the Hotel Axel, Lugar Gay is only for men. Rates start at a bargain $35 per night, including breakfast. If you plan to visit during Buenos Aires’ high season, book ahead; rooms fill up quickly.

The Calden Argentina Guest House is a gay-owned and “heterofriendly” property in downtown Buenos Aires, near Pride Travel. It’s located in a house that was built in 1895 and has operated as a guesthouse since 2005. Each of its five well-decorated rooms has a bath and its own theme—yes, there is an Evita room. Rates start at $60. A loft suite that can sleep three people runs $90.

Nightlife

What’s gay nightlife like in Buenos Aires? Two words: late and integrated. People don’t eat dinner until after 9 p.m, bars don’t get busy until after 11:30 p.m., and you won’t see anyone in dance clubs until after 2 a.m.

Amerika is one of the most popular nightclubs in the city, and it’s gay, lesbian, and straight integrated but is usually about half gay. It’s open Thursdays, Fridays and Saturdays.

The Bulnes Class is a trendy new gay lounge bar, just a half-block from busy Cordoba Street in the Palermo district. Bulnes is popular with the pre-dance crowd.

Sitges bar is named for the gay resort town in Spain. While it is gay and lesbian mixed, it attracts mostly gay men. Like Bulnes, it’s a “pre-dance” bar, and it is also in the Palermo neighborhood.

If you want a crash Tango lesson, you can get a gay one every Wednesday night at 10 p.m. at La Marshall Gay Tango, in downtown. Contramano, in the Barrio Norte neighborhood, is Buenos Aires’ oldest gay bar. It opened in 1984 after Argentina returned to democratic rule.

Like Amerika, Alsina is a very popular gay/straight mixed weekend disco. It’s located in a huge 19th-century warehouse space in the Monserrat neighborhood.

The Glam disco, in the Palermo neighborhood, is particularly popular on Thursday and Saturday nights. It has one dance floor, two bars, a patio and a dark room.

Restaurants

Buenos Aires is a paradise for foodies with lobster taste but a fast-food budget. You can have a gourmet meal for as little as $15 per person. Remember, people eat dinner late (after 9 p.m.), and 10 percent tip is standard.

For a quick coffee, you can’t beat Pride Café. You can pick up a gay magazine there, a gay map of the city or a flier promoting the next event at a gay club.

Chueca restaurant and bar is in the trendy Palermo Soho neighborhood. It features international gourmet food and late-night entertainment.

Inside Restaurant and Bar is downtown and includes strippers on the weekends. It’s most popular with the over 40 age group.

Olsen is gay-owned and very popular during its Sunday brunch. The hip restaurant in the Palermo district sports a Scandinavian design.

The trendy Casa Cruz bar and nightclub near Chueca in Palermo Soho is known for its modern décor and Italian food.

Getting There and Around

I took LAN Airlines from LAX to Buenos Aires with a stop in Lima, Peru. The economy-class service was great, and it’s a good way to go if you want to combine Peru and Argentina in one trip.

Downtown Buenos Aires is about a 45-minute bus ride from the city’s airport. The best way to get downtown is to take a Manuel Tienda Leon bus. It runs every half hour and, depending on the exchange rate, the fare is around $10. If you take a cab all the way from the airport, the fare will be about twice as much, but if you are traveling with someone, you won’t save much by taking the bus.

The subway costs less than 25 cents and is a great way to avoid the traffic. A taxi ride within the downtown, Palermo and San Telmo neighborhoods will seldom run you more than $3. Unlike most American cities, Buenos Aires’ taxi drivers don’t expect tips; but it’s customary to round up the fare to the nearest peso.

The Details

Transportation
LAN Airlines: www.lan.com

Pride Travel
523 Paraguay St.
www.pride-travel.com

Bike Tours: www.biketours.com.ar

Sightseeing
Buenos Aires official tourism website: www.bue.gov.ar

Casa Rosada
24 Balcarce 24
www.casarosada.gov.ar

Nightlife
Amerika
1040 Gascon
www.ameri-k.com.ar

Bulnes Class
1250 Bulnes
www.bulnesclass.com.ar

Alsina
940 Alsina
www.alsinabuenosaires.com.ar

Sitges bar
4119 Cordoba
www.sitgesonline.com.ar

La Marshall
444 Maipu St.
www.lamarshall.com.ar

Contramano
1082 Rodriguez Pena
www.contramano.com

Glam Disco
3046 Cabrera
www.glambsas.com.ar

Accommodations
Hotel Axel
649 Venezuela
www.axelhotels.com

Lugar Gay
1120 Defensa
www.lugargay.com.ar

Calden Argentina
755 Reconquista
www.caldenargentina.com

Dining
Pride Café
869 Balcarce
www.pridecafe.net

Chueca
3283 Soler
www.chueca-restobar.com.ar

Inside Restaurant and Bar
1572 Mitre
www.restaurantinside.com.ar

Olsen
5870 Gorriti

Casa Cruz bar and nightclub
1658 Uriarte
www.casa-cruz.com