Two for the road

by Brent Miller

Due to the intense workload of my newly attained full-time position in the Monday-Friday work force, I unfortunately need to bid farewell to my devoted following of readers who have supported my column. For my final review, I have chosen two different restaurants, both of which have earned a variety of commentary throughout L.A.’s online and printed media.

After reading S. Irene Virbila’s more than complimentary article in the Los Angeles Times, I felt a need to pay Wilshire Restaurant another visit. My first time as a guest was nearly two years ago, shortly after the restaurant’s opening. Unfortunately or fortunately (you decide), the wine was more memorable than the food. Perhaps this could be the reason behind the promotion of former sous chef Andrew Kirschner to executive chef.

While Virbila claims the restaurant has reinvented itself, I felt the environment to be filled with the same local clientele and the food to be a little better, but ordinary. Although Kirschner focuses on local produce and sustainable farming, his lack of creativity behind each dish hurts the overall presentation. As a big fan of food that speaks for itself, I sadly found the menu to read tastier than the actual food I ate. I love the outdoor patio and understand the challenges with outdoor dining, but having a small roach run up my pant leg was enough to keep me away for a while. Once again, the wine was enjoyable, but unfortunately everything else—including the complimentary chocolate brownie—was less than average.

Surprisingly, Eva Longoria’s new restaurant, Beso, was much better than average. Other than the obnoxious “wannabe Hollywood types” the restaurant attracts, the décor, ambiance, service and food are well worth the visit. Celebrity Chef Todd English created the somewhat eclectic menu. And our server, Caroline, was well informed and eager to please by recommending her personal favorites as well as an honest opinion of our preferred choices—I’d expect nothing less from a New York transplant. Although my steak was delivered to the table slightly overcooked, Caroline quickly sent it back and returned with a much more acceptable piece of meat. Unfortunately, this time around the meat was a little too raw and needed to be sent back again. Not to worry, “third time was a charm.” While waiting for my new steak, and then my new steak to be re-cooked, I thoroughly enjoyed a great glass of wine, a phenomenal artichoke guacamole, a tasty tomato salad garnished with a squash blossom quesadilla and a grilled shrimp or two from my friend’s plate. Regardless of the steak mishap, and thanks to Caroline, Beso (Spanish for “kiss”) is a place I’ll surely return to.

The Details

Beso
6350 Hollywood Blvd.
Hollywood
(323) 467-7991

Wilshire
2454 Wilshire Blvd.
Santa Monica
www.wilshirerestaurant.com

Brent Miller has more than 10 years experience—nationally and internationally—in the special event and food and beverage industries.