by Larry Buhl

Tinseltown may have fallen on hard times in the 1990s, but the city is poised to make a triumphant return in the 21st century.

Left for dead in the early 1990s to tattoo parlors and crack addicts, Hollywood has been rediscovered by developers from far and wide. Fifteen years ago, no lender would consider funding a new construction project, but now Hollywood is back in a big way—safe, fun and bursting with ambition. Arguably the most famous urban name in the world is a real place, a place now attracting close to $1 billion in new development. And if you think construction has peaked, just stand at the corner of Sunset and Vine and take a look at the orange cranes in every direction.

With dozens of projects on the drawing board, Hollywood is poised to continue the largest makeover since the 1920s, when explosive growth in the movie industry—plus a nationwide “city beautiful” movement—was a catalyst for building dozens of the most beautiful (still standing) Art Deco structures in Southern California.

When asked what Hollywood will be like in 10 years, City Councilmember Tom LaBonge mentions, in the same breath, San Francisco, Manhattan and Paris. “There will be more people living close to a great boulevard, a more dense community and an increase in pedestrians and nightlife. You can expect the Hollywood Bowl to be truly connected to Hollywood Boulevard by activity.”

Councilmember for Los Angeles’s 4th district, covering much of what’s known as Hollywood (unlike West Hollywood, Hollywood is not a separate city), LaBonge has made Hollywood redevelopment, as well as the expansion of the Metro Red Line, central to his current job. But he admits it won’t be easy to balance the old and the new.

As LaBonge drives around his district to point out the new development going on, he speaks one minute as a civic booster, but acts as a small town mayor, rather than a councilman in a highly dense district bulging with more than a quarter-million residents. When he sees a young woman dragging her trash out to the curb, he stops and asks her whether she has any “issues” with the city. After a moment of confusion, she understands that he’s her councilman and serious—he wants to know how City Hall can make her neighborhood better. She couldn’t think of anything at the moment. That kind of small town-ish connection between residents and government is something LaBonge wants to continue.

“There has to be an emphasis on preserving the old in the redevelopment of Hollywood,” LaBonge adds. “We can have growth and preservation at the same time. The Farmers Market is a good model. I think the Grove re-energized it without diminishing it.”

Thanks to two Red Line stops and a greater street level ambiance, many parts of Hollywood have turned into true walking neighborhoods, and that is expected to increase even with—or because of—the new development. Still, LaBonge insists that Angelenos and tourists have to get out of their cars to prevent Hollywood from becoming gridlock central. He mentions the likelihood that more restrictions in neighborhood traffic flows, especially on large streets, will be necessary to handle the exploding population growth. He points to a proposed 20-story condo building at Highland and Franklin, the busiest intersection in Los Angeles, as a singular challenge in managing growth without producing gridlock.

In spite of the increasingly vertical character of the area, Hollywood isn’t Manhattan. One key difference—aside from the weather—is the cost. Even with the sky-high cost of owning a home or condo, living in Hollywood is still not as cost prohibitive for many. But that’s expected to change, too.

“Anyone who wants to move to Hollywood should do so in the next few years,” LaBonge says. “The denser Hollywood becomes, the more valuable the real estate.”

What’s Gay About It?

It doesn’t have the worldwide gay credentials of West Hollywood or the gay bohemian cachet of Silver Lake. But between those bookends, Hollywood has a lot to offer for the discriminating and adventuresome. More gay-friendly than outright gay, these places have been attracting a significant LGBT crowd.

The Do-Over
Crane’s Hollywood Tavern
1611 N. El Centro Ave.
www.uber.com/doover

Taking place at Crane’s Tavern in the middle of Hollywood (across from Bally's Fitness), the summer party, the Do-Over, offers eclectic music, yummy sangria and an intimate house party vibe, which attracts people from all walks of life.

Cat and Fiddle
6530 Sunset Blvd.
www.thecatandfiddle.com

This bar/restaurant is a slice of old Hollywood, with a hip-ish mixed crowd and a beautiful patio.

Cinespace
6356 Hollywood Blvd.
www.cinespace.info

An upscale restaurant, bar and screening room, Cinespace shows art-house films, classics, music videos and art.

Pig ‘n Whistle
6714 Hollywood Blvd.
www.pignwhistle.com

Restaurant by day, hipster martini lounge by night, the Pig ‘n Whistle is a true Hollywood landmark. The space was host to the first Oscar after-party and Judy Garland had her 15th birthday there. Doesn’t get much gayer than that!

Three Clubs
1123 N. Vine St.
(323) 462-6441

Hard to find, but that just makes it hipper, doesn’t it? A very eclectic cocktail lounge with a mixed crowd—you’ll fit in—and the venue regularly hosts theme nights.

MJ’s Bar
2810 Hyperion Ave.
www.mjsbar.com

The only gay dance club in Hollywood (though officially in Silver Lake), MJ’s has a different club each night of the week, with a reasonable cover. For wall-to-wall people, go Tuesdays or Saturdays.

Summer Screenings
Hollywood Forever Cemetery
6000 Santa Monica Blvd.
www.cinespia.org

With the popular Arclight theaters, as well as the old movie houses on Hollywood Boulevard, there is no lack of movie screens. But this series is about the atmosphere that only a cemetery can provide. Take a little picnic and head there early to find a good spot. The Summer 2008 season starts in May.

The Music Box@Fonda
6126 Hollywood Blvd.
www.henryfondatheater.com

One night, it’s a ’40s-style cabaret, the next it’s host to a gala premiere, and the next night it features a boxing match. Go to a concert, hold a party in the Speakeasy, or just hang.

The Hollywood Bowl
2301 N. Highland Ave.
www.hollywoodbowl.com

Rufus Wainright performed a song-for-song reprise of Judy Garland’s 1961 Carnegie Hall concert there last October (wearing Judy’s outfit in an encore). I’m just sayin’. Except for rock concerts, you can take wine and food and make it a dinner/concert on a warm summer evening. Tickets can be as low as $10. Tip: Avoid Bowl parking gridlock by parking at Hollywood/Highland, do a little shopping there and walk up the hill.

Lucky Strike Lanes
6801 Hollywood Blvd.
www.bowlluckystrike.com

Located in the Hollywood and Highland complex, this flashy, trendy (and expensive) venue is not your parents’ bowling alley. There’s a nightclub-quality audio system hosted by a live VJ/DJ, multiscreen video exhibition system programmed with movie clips, videos and computer art.

Welcome to Hollywood!

With half of Hollywood under scaffolding, it can be hard to discern the what’s what of development sites. Below are just a few projects in the works for Tinseltown.

Academy of Motion Picture Arts and Sciences Museum

Location: 1313 N. Vine St.

What is it? A $200-million museum surrounding the Academy’s Pickford Center in Hollywood

Boulevard 6200

Location: Hollywood Boulevard, between Argyle and Gower

What is it? The new development includes 1,000 apartments and 175,000-sq.ft. of retail space as part of a $350-million mixed-use development.

Columbia Square

Location: 6121 Sunset Blvd.

What is it? Developers are planning for a 125-room boutique hotel as part of a mixed-use, $850-million project. Groundbreaking is expected in 2009.

Hollywood/Vine Project

Location: Hollywood Boulevard/

Vine Avenue

What is it? Occupying almost five acres, this project will have one of the biggest footprints in the area when it opens in 2009. It will include a 300-room W Hotel, 375 apartment units (including 20 percent affordable housing), 150 luxury condos and lofts, ground-level retail space, an MTA transit plaza and 1,311 parking spaces.

Palladium

Location: 6215 Sunset Blvd.

What is it? New owners have signed an agreement with Live Nation to book and manage a renovated Palladium that will reopen in fall 2008.

Paseo Plaza

Location: 5601 Santa Monica Blvd.

What is it? A mixed-use project in the area surrounding Sears will include 377,000 sq. ft. of retail space and 437 residential units.

The Green Mile

With Hollywood’s development frenzy in full swing, it may seem no parcel of land will remain untouched. Seriously, can we pave over the Hollywood Hills? But not everyone is so gung-ho about sacrificing every patch of grass in the city. A plan is in the works for Hollywood Freeway Central Park, 24 acres of new green space built (where else?) on an overpass straddling the 101. The park is being proposed to sit between Bronson and Wilton Avenues. Just make sure the Hollywood Freeway Park isn’t the place you work on your long arm when throwing the Frisbee around with Fido.