Whether you cook with the best produce or eat out at the finest restaurants, the time is right for culinary encounters of the delicious kind.

By Joseph S. Amster

Southern California is blessed with the freshest produce, finest fish and best meats in the nation. Because of this, local chefs in the area’s numerous restaurants, as well as home cooks, turn out some of the nation’s top cuisine. Los Angeles is definitely a city that appreciates fine dining, and whether it’s from a four-star restaurant, a taco stand or your very own kitchen, it’s the ingredients that make the difference. In this edition of our dining guide, we begin with a look at the bounty of produce straight from the field at the Southland’s numerous farmers’ markets, including a city-by-city guide.

A Bountiful Harvest

Not all broccoli comes frozen with cheese sauce, not all tomatoes are canned, nor do all salad greens come out of a bag. Supermarkets do have respectable produce sections, but they pale in comparison to a farmers’ market. Many of the items offered are organic, and they’re often the same price or just a little more than those offered by supermarkets, but with a huge difference in quality and freshness. Also, what better way to spend the day than browsing through an open-air market, doing some people watching, buying some delicious produce for a fantastic dinner, having a leisurely lunch from the food vendors, listening to some local musicians and just soaking in the atmosphere? The farmers’ markets in Hollywood and Santa Monica in particular are very popular, filled with friendly farmers who’ll answer your questions on how to prepare their produce.

One of the most interesting aspects of patronizing a farmers’ market is watching the produce change with the season and adjusting your own cooking accordingly. A seasonal approach to cooking takes advantage of the best of what’s available, and allows you to be more creative in the kitchen. Consulting cookbooks for ideas about preparing unfamiliar produce is a good start, but be adventurous and improvise—you’ll be surprised with the results. Currently, root vegetables and apples are just going out of season, while tender spring vegetables are just coming in. As summer approaches, peaches, nectarines and plums arrive, as well as tons of tomatoes and squash.

Talking from behind a table piled high with produce, Chuck works for McGrath Farms at the Hollywood Farmers’ Market. The McGraths have been selling organic produce at local farmers’ markets for 25 years, starting with the Santa Monica Farmers’ Market when it was founded. “Today, we’re selling root vegetables and greens, as well as organic strawberries,” he says. “Our customers are very concerned about what they put in their bodies, so we sell a little bit of everything to people who want organic food.” For those wanting to plan their spring menus, Chuck says the McGraths have begun harvesting some delicious seasonal items. “The fava beans are just coming in,” he says, “we’ve had English peas for about a month, baby artichokes are very popular, we just brought in parsley and parsley root, and we just brought in dandelion greens.”

One aspect of the farmers’ market experience that both vendors and customers enjoy is the sense of community the market creates. “Lots of the people who come are repeat customers—I’ve gotten to know quite a few people. It’s almost a carnival-like atmosphere. People get to know each other and talk about what’s going on in their lives,” he says. That’s exactly the kind of experience that Pompea Smith intended when she helped found the Hollywood Farmers’ Market in 1991. Smith ser ves as chief executive officer of the Sustainable Economic Enterprises Los Angeles, the non-profit organization that runs the market, as well as providing educational outreach and access for the farmers to the community. “One of the things that motivated me to have the market was to have that sense of community right in the center of Hollywood. There was something missing. People are isolated here, and the market does foster a sense of community. That’s what’s wonderful about it.”

Farmers’ markets have affected cuisine, and home cooking in particular. They’ve also had an affect on the quality and selection in the produce sections of supermarkets. Browsing the various stands at a farmers’ market, you’ll see many unfamiliar fruits and vegetables, especially from the Asian vendors. Fifteen years ago, very few people knew about vegetables like broccoli rabe, purple cauliflower, baby bok choi or pea shoots, while today they’re standard fare at farmers’ markets. “Our industry has generated more interest in fresh food. We’ve seen that people have become more aware of it in restaurants and more interested in buying from farmers. Even in the supermarkets, we see that the quality of the produce has improved,” Smith says. She also believes this increased awareness has carried over into people’s kitchens. “It’s amazing how many people are into food now. People preparing food now are more selective about what they’re going to eat and are more aware of the quality and freshness.”

Most of the vendors will take the time to discuss their offerings with you and give you hints on how to prepare them. “The interaction brings together the farmers with the consumers, and people also share their experiences with one another,” Smith says. “Sometimes the farmers have favorite recipes that they bring in, and they also explain what the product can be used for. Because we have a much wider variety of products than you can find in a supermarket, there needs to be more education as to how they’re going to be used.”

While you’re shopping, don’t just limit yourself to fruits and vegetables. Vendors also offer artisan cheeses and breads, olives and oils, flowers, soaps, soups and prepared foods ranging from paella to pupusas, as well as many handcrafted items. Whether you’re stir-frying, baking, braising, roasting, boiling or just eating it raw, you’re sure to find something you’ll love at a farmers’ market. With a little education and preparation, you can have a wonderful meal, and never have to face boil-in-bag broccoli with cheese sauce again.

What’s on the Menu?

By Joseph S. Amster

Can’t decide where to eat? Here’s a selection of a few of our recent favorites presented for your dining pleasure. Bon appétit!

The Boulevard Lounge

1114 N. Crescent Heights Blvd.
West Hollywood
(323) 654-6686

If you’re looking for a place in West Hollywood where you can have a few drinks with some friends in a relaxing lounge with eclectic music, good vibes and some great cuisine, check out the Boulevard Lounge. The baby back ribs were honestly some of the best I’ve ever had. The spicy dry rub (no sauce required, and don’t you dare ask) leaves the outside with a crisp crust, revealing the pink, tender and juicy meat below. Other entrées include seared or blackened salmon, grilled rosemary chicken, classic mahi fish and chips, and, believe it or not, burgers and hot dogs.

Eleven Restaurant and Nightclub

6611 Santa Monica Blvd.
West Hollywood
(310) 855-0800

Any time a new restaurant and nightclub opens on Santa Monica Boulevard in the part of West Hollywood commonly referred to as “Boy's Town,” it arouses curiosity. Taking over the long-vacant space at the corner at Larabee Avenue, Eleven has become the new hot spot. Dinner entrées range from rack of lamb to Alaskan halibut, macadamia nut crusted maple leaf duck breast and crispy skin organic chicken. I sampled the grilled blue fin tuna loin served on spaghetti squash with charred scallions and a fennel and apple salad with pink grapefruit vinaigrette and 25-year-old balsamic. The highlight was the pan-roasted prime rib-eye with cipollini onions with a parsnip purée and wine reduction. Kudos to Chef Vincent Manna for his cuisine, which not only emphasizes freshness, composition and imagination, but also top-quality ingredients.

Flying Leap Café

2538 Hyperion Blvd.
Silver Lake
(323) 661-0618
www.flyingleapcafe.com

With its intimate 45-seat dining room, this is a great place to take a date, and was packed on the Wednesday night I visited. The airplane motif throughout gives the restaurant a whimsical tone, and the reproduction of the Griffith Park Observatory mural completes the theme. Flying Leap’s menu offers a variety of classic American cuisine favorites, with a splash of Continental thrown in for good measure. Tuesday and Wednesday nights are good for those looking for a bargain, as they offer many specials for $9.99, a great value. However, for those with a more distinguished palate, the Friday-Sunday night specials with wine pairings are something special. Kudos to manager Mike for bringing his knowledge of viniculture to the Flying Leap—be sure to heed his advice.

Lei Lounge

4622 Park Blvd.
San Diego
(619) 813-2272
www.leilounge.com

Lei Lounge is one of the cooler, hip places to dine and socialize in San Diego. The restaurant offers a menu of global-inspired appetizer portion selections, including more than three dozen choices. Small sampler platters of tempura with shrimp and lobster, dumplings and a special skewer trio are highlights. Patrons can enjoy a modern, sleek bar area during happy hour or opt for cabana seating for a late-night dinner. The extensive menu of exotic signature drinks, ample selection of beer choices and bottle service complement the food items. Brunch is offered on Sunday, happy hour drink prices are available during the week beginning at 5 p.m., and Tuesday remains a bargain night to enjoy the ambience of this popular venue, which just celebrated its one-year anniversary.

Look Palm Springs

139 E. Andreas Rd.
Palm Springs
(760) 778-3520
www.lookpalmsprings.com

Look Palm Springs offers the perfect outdoor dining experience. You can enjoy the venue for lunch on a warm, sunny desert day, or for dinner on an elegant, cool evening under the stars. The restaurant and video bar serves up an array of appetizers, soups and salads in addition to an ample selection of wraps, sandwiches and burgers, all at reasonable prices. Worth a taste are their pizza pies, including artichoke and cajun flavors and a variety of fiesta favorites. Nearly a dozen entrée choices are available, with highlights being the seafood crepes and peppercorn steak, and a Sunday brunch is offered. Happy hour drink prices are available during special hours every day and their late-night hours are convenient for night dwellers. —Russell Poncik

Miceli’s

1646 N. Las Palmas Ave.
Hollywood
(323) 466-3438
Second location in Universal City

www.micelisrestaurant.com

Walking into Miceli’s restaurant in Hollywood is like stepping into a time machine. Owned and operated by the Miceli family since it opened in 1949, it’s rare to find restaurants in Hollywood with such longevity. There are good reasons why Miceli’s has been around for so long: atmosphere, service and, of course, the cuisine. If you’re looking for good, traditional Italian cuisine, this is the place to go. Miceli’s is famous for their pizza, but Aunt Angie’s sweet, meaty, savory and creamy original lasagna was my favorite.

Mick & Mack’s

740 E. Broadway

Long Beach

(562) 983-7001

www.mickandmacks.com

A familiar address offers a tasty new menu of favorites like nachos, onion rings, burgers, hot pastrami, country-fried steak and pork chops. But wait, there’s more: Be sure to try the shrimp cocktail and Bloody Mary for something different, or the Mick & Mack’s rice bowl for light eaters. Hearty eaters will love the 14-oz. New York steak, barbecue bacon burger (with cheddar and jack cheese, of course) and their homemade chili. Be sure to stick around for nightly entertainment.

Milano’s Italian Kitchen

21550 Oxnard St.

Woodland Hills

(818) 340-8400

Located in Woodland Hills’ Warner Center, Milano’s Italian Kitchen is well worth seeking out for its cuisine that is consistently fresh, flavorful and full of surprises. The diverse menu features numerous offerings, including chicken, seafood and meat dishes (as well as spaghetti and meatballs, but please, try something different). The specials, however, are the stars of the menu. Upon the waiter’s recommendation, I ordered the cartoccio—an impressive dish similar to the French classic papillote. In Milano’s version, a foil pillow arrives at the table, is sliced open, and when the steam clears, a spicy bouillabaisse-style seafood stew emerges. Filled with tender fish, shrimp, scallops, clams, garlic, onions, artichoke hearts and hearts of palm, this dish was truly impressive.

The Smoke House

4420 Lakeside Dr.
(818) 845-3731
www.smokehouse1946.com

With restaurants like the Brown Derby, Perino’s and Chasen’s just a memory, where can you find the atmosphere and glamour of old Hollywood and a damn good steak too? Head to the Smoke House in Burbank, now celebrating its 60th anniversary. Located across the street from Warner Bros. Studios, the wood-paneled dining rooms and plush red leather booths transport you back to a time when Bogie, Cagney, Davis and Crawford enjoyed their steaks, chops and martinis after a long day of shooting. The classic venue is even appealing to the new Hollywood royalty—George Clooney is a regular and has his own booth at the restaurant. Beef is king at the Smoke House, and steaks range from filet mignon to porterhouse, New York, flat iron and more.

Sushi Hiroba

776 N. Vine St.
Los Angeles
(323) 962-7237
www.sushihiroba.com

I usually avoid conveyor-belt sushi restaurants. I’ve found the quality at these establishments to be poor, sacrificing imagination and freshness for speed and convenience. Gladly, Sushi Hiroba is an exception to the rule. Having recently opened their first U.S. location in Los Angeles, they have other restaurants in London, Seoul and Tokyo, with eventual plans to open in Moscow. Sushi Hiroba is definitely upscale, but not with upscale pricing. Special orders can be placed with any of the sushi chefs on duty, and the restaurant also offers omakase ordering, where you put yourself at the mercy of the chef for selections. Sushi Hiroba’s menu goes far beyond sushi, with a wide range of traditional Japanese salads, appetizers, and main dishes like teriyaki and tempura or Kobe beef.

Certified Farmers' Markets in Los Angeles County. For specific locations, go to www.farmernet.com.

Alhambra
Sunday
8:30 a.m.-1 p.m.

Atwater Village
Sunday
10 a.m.-2 p.m.

Baldwin Park
Tuesday
4 p.m.-9 p.m.

Bellflower
Monday
9 a.m.-1 p.m.
Thursday
6 p.m.-9 p.m. (summer only)

Beverly Hills
Sunday
9 a.m.-1 p.m.

Brentwood
Sunday
9 a.m.-1 p.m.

Burbank
Saturday
8 a.m.-12:30 p.m.

Calabasas
Saturday
8 a.m.-1 p.m.

Carson
Thursday
9 a.m.-1 p.m.

Century City
Thursday
11:30 a.m.-3 p.m.

Culver City
Tuesday
2 p.m.-7 p.m.

Echo Park
Friday
3 p.m.-7 p.m.

Glendale
Thursday
9:30 a.m.-1 p.m.

Hollywood
Sunday
8 a.m.-1 p.m.

Hollywood Sears
Wednesday
12:30-5:30 p.m.

L.A. Adams/Vermont
Wednesday
1-6 p.m.

L.A. Central Avenue
Saturday
9 a.m.-1 p.m.

L.A. Chinatown
Thursday
4 p.m.-8 p.m.

L.A. Eagle Rock
Friday
5 p.m.-8:30 p.m.

L.A. Harambee
Saturday
10 a.m.-4 p.m.

L.A. La Cienega
Thursday
3 p.m.-7 p.m.

L.A. Seventh and Figueroa
Thursday, Friday and Saturday
10 a.m.-4 p.m.

L.A. Silver Lake
Saturday
8 a.m.-1 p.m.

L.A. Wilshire Center
Friday
11:30 a.m.-3 p.m.

Larchmont Village
Sunday
10 a.m.-2 p.m.

Leimert Park Village
Saturday
9 a.m.-2 p.m.

Little Tokyo
Saturday
10 a.m.-3 p.m.

Long Beach
Friday
10 a.m.-4 p.m.

Long Beach Marina
Sunday
8 a.m.-1 p.m.

Mar Vista
Sunday
9 a.m.-1 p.m.

Melrose Place
Sunday
9 a.m.-2 p.m.

Old L.A., Highland Park
Tuesday
3 p.m.-7 p.m.

Pacific Palisades
Sunday
8 a.m.-1:30 p.m.

Pasadena Victory Park
Saturday
8:30 a.m.-1 p.m.

Pasadena Villa Park
Tuesday
9 a.m.-1 p.m.

Santa Monica Pico
Saturday
8 a.m.-1 p.m.

Santa Monica Organic
Saturday
8:30 a.m.-1 p.m.

Santa Monica
Wednesday
9 a.m.-2 p.m.
Sunday
9:30 a.m.-1 p.m.

South Pasadena
Thursday
4 p.m.-8 p.m.

Studio City
Sunday
8 a.m.-1 p.m.

Toluca Lake
Sunday
8:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m.

Venice
Friday
7 a.m.-11 a.m.

West Hollywood
Monday
9 a.m.-2 p.m.

West L.A.
Sunday
9 a.m.-2 p.m.

Westwood
Thursday
1 p.m.-7 p.m.