Oldies But Goodies

by Tony Spano, Jr.

L.A. Classic Dining Hot Spots

Ago, the elegant Italian Trattoria named after its celebrated Executive Chef Agostino Sciandri, is a long-term resident gracing the enclave of prestigious restaurants in West Hollywood. With a main dining area featuring blond wooden tables, a terra cotta floor and a sophisticated wood-paneled bar area, the rustic Italian country feel lets one escape the hubbub of Melrose Avenue and enter a relaxed Italian country villa.

“The menu merges what’s best of three regions of Italy: Tuscany, Liguria and Emillo Romano,” notes Agostino. With a variety of pasta dishes, seafood and steaks, the house recommends their signature Spaghetti allo Scoglio and Risotto Ai Funghi dishes.

Opened in 1997 with backing from Miramax moguls Bob and Harvey Weinstein and actor Robert De Niro, the quiet home of Ago in West Hollywood is one of four Agostino establishments; you’ll find the sister restaurants in South Beach, Las Vegas and New York.

Starting off with Bresaola della Valtellina (dry cured beef with rugola and parmesan)—paired with a dry chardonnay—only hints at the feast to come. Whether you drop by for lunch, a simple-yet-stellar pizza or a variety of pasta dishes, the choices of meat and seafood will leave you planning a return visit.

On the north side of West Hollywood, Mirabelle, an icon of the Sunset Strip since 1971, began life as a simple hamburger stand. Now transformed into a fine dining bistro, this classic landmark offers a variety of old and new. From the original Crab Bisque, served since its opening, to Fresh Market Oysters, many delicious options can sate one’s hunger. With several selections of pasta (chicken ravioli is very popular), there are also “water” and “land” choices, covering classics from salmon to short ribs—and Organic Shetland Cod to Rack of Lamb. And yes, there’s still a hamburger on the menu.

Joe’s Restaurant in Venice may seem plain and simple in title, but if you’re already familiar with this gastronomical landmark, then you are a member of the fan club. If Joe’s is new to you, make a reservation and learn about one of L.A.’s foodie gems. Opened in September 1991, Joe’s has become a Venice landmark, an unassuming cozy space with hardwood floors, wrought-iron chandeliers and some of the best meals in L.A.

Executive Chef and Owner Joseph Miller brings an eclectic mix of dinner delights, including New Zealand Red Snapper, Alaskan Halibut and King Salmon, as well as Jidori Chicken Breast and Roasted Prime Sirloin. For a special treat, try the reasonable prix fixe menu—or the more extensive tasting menu—delving into the chef’s special seasonal selections. Joe’s famous brunch is not to be missed, offering delicious dishes such as Green Chili and Turkey Chorizo Breakfast Burritos and Louisiana Blue Crab Hash with Poached Eggs. Each dish comes with a choice of granola, seasonal fruit, a mixed green salad or soup. And of course you can’t go wrong starting off with a Mimosa or Bloody Mary!

the details

Ago Restaurant
8478 Melrose Ave., WeHo
(323) 655-6333
agorestaurant.com

Joe’s Restaurant
1023 Abbot Kinney Blvd., Venice
(310) 399-5811
joesrestaurant.com

Mirabelle Restaurant
8768 W. Sunset Blvd., WeHo
(310) 659-6022
mirabelleonsunset.com

CachÉ Away

by Eric Rosen

On most evenings, you can catch two-Michelin-star chef Josiah Citrin, who made Mélisse an L.A. landmark, perfecting the recipes in the kitchen of his new, more casual Santa Monica restaurant, Caché, along with chef de cuisine Nyesha Harrington.

The restaurant is the newest incarnation of a space on Main Street that has housed several other unsuccessful eateries, including the most recent, Hidden, to which Caché is a reference. However, none of the others took full advantage of the beautiful outdoor space, or had Citrin’s culinary creativity (or star power) to draw on.

Caché is divided into several distinct sections, including a multi-space outdoor area with a fire pit lounge, smaller private outdoor dining cabanas, a huge patio and a long bar that bridges the space between the outdoor and more formal indoor dining room. Despite that hodgepodge, the whole coheres as an oasis set back from the street by a courtyard, screened by a thick row of shrubs underneath twinkling lights.

Likewise, the menu is broken down into gourmet groupings to satiate any appetite—though not every pocket book since a full dinner here is likely to run you over $50 per person without beverages. The carte commences with those new de rigueur aperitifs, a choice of mason jar rillettes including a savory one with duck confit, and another with smoked salmon and potato salad.

The first courses are equally sophisticated, and vary from accessible nibbles like calamari with parsley, chorizo and Meyer lemon, to the more adventurous fire-roasted bone marrow to spread on baguette crostini with mushroom tapenade.

The kitchen transforms a banal heirloom tomato salad into something sexier by throwing in watermelon, avocado, feta and mint vinaigrette, but skip the veggies and try one of the homemade flatbreads like the one with duck sausage, artichokes, Niçoise olives and Cantal cheese.

Main courses represent the best from sea and land, like a pristine white hunk of tender Alaskan halibut topped with fresh baby artichokes, tomatoes and chunks of bacon. The juicy cut of New York steak is adorned with sweet Maui onion rings and a tangy chimi churi sauce, while vegetarians will enjoy the piping-hot baked rigatoni with mushroom duxelles and tomato sauce.

Often-boring side dishes come alive in incarnations like the beautifully multi-colored heirloom carrots in a tropical passion fruit glaze with thyme, or the hearty Provençal-inspired white bean ragout with olives, Meyer lemon and oven-dried tomatoes.

Desserts are the most fun, playing off childhood treats like the dense “chocolate crunch” with peanut butter caramel sauce and chocolate ice cream, or the butter rum cake “Twinkie” with coconut cream and passion fruit sorbet.

The wine list, like the rest of the menu, is priced high, especially those by the glass, so go for a whole bottle because you can find some real treasures for under $50.

Though a tier below Mélisse and its ilk, Caché is still going to be one of the fancier places you go on the Westside, so when you book your date there, make sure it’s a special occasion, or that you’ll at least get some nookie afterwards.

the details

Caché
3110 Main St., Santa Monica
(310) 399-4800
cacherestaurant.com