To Recycle Or To Compost, That is the Question.

BY MIKE BROWN

Poinsettias are native to Mexico and Guatemala, and were first introduced to the United States in 1828 by Joel Roberts Poinsett. Symbolizing the holiday season, these multi-stemmed, mid-size shrubs have become a yuletide staple, and if the lighting and growing conditions are just right, poinsettias can become small trees. Their leaves are dark green with colorful bracts, (or pseudoleaves) ranging in colors from red and white to yellow and pink, with some plants even sporting marbled patterns. The flowers are found at the center of the plant and are small yellowish button-like inflorescences.

Poinsettias are a member of the Spurge genus, a family of plants noted for their white milky sap that can be caustic to those who are latex sensitive. The sap should not come in contact with mucous membranes and must be washed off immediately. Plant parts must not be ingested and therefore should be kept away from pets and children. Poinsettias are fairly brittle, so if a twig or limbs breaks, use clippers or scissors to cut it off, then wash them and your hands afterwards with warm soapy water, as the sap becomes gummy when it dries.

If you are up for the tasks required to get your poinsettia to bloom in the new year, you will undoubtedly receive that “green thumb” title, though you will have your work cut out for you. If you have neither the time nor the patience, you might as well toss your current plants in the compost bin and buy new ones next December. But for those of you who are up for the challenge, I send you well-wishes. “Green thumb” titles, after all, are bragging rights! I know this sounds like a lot of work to get your poinsettia to bloom a second time, but here is the 411 you need to know.

If you are lucky enough to have your plant survive the holiday parties, curious pets, strong winds, dry heat and maybe even a couple of missed watering sessions, then you owe the plant a new lease on life. After the holidays, re-pot your plant in a larger container. If your poinsettia is currently resting in an 8-inch container, step it up to at least a 10-inch container to allow for ample root growth and development. Use organic, well-drained soil, keeping it damp but not soggy. Once the outdoor temperature moderates above 55 degrees, you can move the plant outside in direct sunlight or filtered light. Trim the plant back to 6-8 inches in height come mid-March, and you should start to see new growth in May. Periodically prune the leaves, keeping the plant compact and bushy, but do not prune after Labor Day, as then you will most likely be removing flower buds. Use a balanced 10-10-10 fertilizer (Miracle Grow works wonderfully) every two or three weeks. I recommend using the liquid fertilizer that mixes easily into a watering can.

To get your plants to bloom again, they must receive a minimum of 14 hours of darkness a day after the first of October. Put the potted plant inside your garage or closet (the choice of space must not receive any light whatsoever), then take it out every day, setting it in the sun for 10 hours before bringing it back each night to the space with total darkness. Continue the cycle by taking it outside again the following morning for another 10 hours of sunlight. This exciting routine continues for 10 weeks. (Hang in there!) All your hard work should start to pay off as the bracts begin to turn color as Christmas nears.

When your poinsettia is ready for displaying, chose an area away from drafts, heating vents, foot traffic and remember, out of the reach of children and pets.

Congratulations, you are now officially a member of the “Green Thumb Association”!

Above is a photo of a large specimen poinsettia near Carthay Circle in Los Angeles, topping out at about 12 feet in height. It is sandwiched between two tall apartment buildings and it faces the northeast side of the building. It obviously gets plenty of dark hours here as there are no street lights nearby and the sun sets around 4:30 p.m.

If you have any questions or suggestions, please feel free to leave a comment on my Web site at projectgreenscaping.com.

Mike Brown is a garden and landscape designer in Los Angeles.