An Angeleno Culinary Tour

BY TONY SPANO, JR.

While Jules Verne fashioned a modernist trip around the world in 80 days for Englishman Phileas Fogg, our post-modern journey will take us on a culinary tour of Los Angeles’ best eats from around the globe. As an international city, many have brought their flavors of home to share with their fellow Angelenos. On our continent-hopping Epicurean adventure we’ll experience familiar, sweet aromas and new, innovative flavors. Plan your itinerary and book your tables as we explore the unique range of establishments right here at home. Bon appétit and bon voyage!

SOUTH AMERICA

1. La Fonda Antioqueña (Columbian) 5125 Melrose Ave., L.A. lafondaantioquena.com

La Fonda Antioqueña would make a native Columbian feel at home. If breakfast is your favorite meal of the day, the must-trys are the desayuno paisa (steak, eggs, corn cake) and arepa (corn cake) con carne or queso. With a full menu of mon-and-pop home-style meats and fish, take an aromatic tour of Columbia’s culinary pride.

2. Picanha Churrascaria (Brazilian) 269 W. Palm Ave., Burbank picanharestaurant.com

Nothing says “feast” better than having long sword-like skewers with deliciously seasoned grilled meats brought to your table by a troop of roaming gaucho-clad carvers. Begin with the caipirinhas, a Brazilian cocktail of tropical juices mixed with flavored rum. The all-you-can-eat parade of meat is accompanied by traditional Brazilian side dishes and an extravagant 40-item salad area. This feast fit for a king (and queen!) will have you booking trips here often to enjoy a Brazilian cowboy dining experience.

3. Los Balcones Del Peru (Peruvian) 1360 Vine St., L.A. 323/871-9600

When exploring less-familiar cuisines, ask your server for recommendations. If scallops are in season, then you’re in luck, and in for a treat. From ceviche to the lomo saltado, the various Peruvian delicacies are spicy and bursting with flavor. Within walking distance of the Arclight and Pantages, try out this gem before or after the show.

AUSTRALIA

4. Bondi BBQ (Aussie-style barbecue) 46 Windward Ave., Venice bondibbq.com

That trans-Pacific flight has never been so short. Bondi and Venice beaches have long been bohemian locales, and after all, it’s the same (Pacific) ocean. With a menu filled with barbecue beef, pork, shrimp and ribs, you’ll be ready to climb Ayers Rock in your heels and frock. When they “throw another shrimp on the barbie” you’ll be thinking like a Sydneysider in no time, mate!

ASIA

5. Simpang Asia (Indonesian) 10433 National Blvd., L.A. simpangasia.com

Both an Indonesian café and market, Simpang offers you authentic Indonesian cuisine and a chance to take home treats to keep memories of your visit alive. Try nasi rames, a popular Indonesian rice platter with spiced chicken curry, tasty tofu tempeh and delicious beef rendang. When done, visit the market for a candy dessert.

6. Yabu (Japanese) yaburestaurant.com

Diners can choose between two locations, one in West L.A. and the other in WeHo. The latter is nestled in an elegant and romantic setting with an outdoor patio enclosed by lighted bamboo trees, with a warm fireplace in the dining area. Yabu provides a memorable Japanese dining adventure with fresh sushi, amazing sashimi plates, the West Hollywood-favorite yellowtail carpaccio with jalapeño and their famous homemade soba noodles. Be adventurous and try a variety of Japanese tapas dishes such as lotus root, stir-fried eggplant with miso and homemade shrimp shumai.

7. Nirvana (Indian) 8689 Wilshire Blvd., Beverly Hills nirvanabeverlyhills.com

With a choice of dining on couches or on Western tables, the first impressions stepping into Nirvana immediately bring you away from the bustle of traffic on Wilshire Boulevard and into, well, what else… nirvana! In an epicurean trinity of food, music and ambiance, it is ultimately the flavorful foods of India that make this trip worth your while. From the familiar samosa and chicken tikka, to the robust Chilean seabass tandoori, each dish overflows with aroma and taste. Don’t miss the various bread preparations, including nan with rosemary, basil or garlic, as well as the tandoori roti.

MIDDLE EAST

8. Javan (Persian) 11500 Santa Monica Blvd., L.A. javanrestaurant.com

Settled in a soothing and calming atmosphere, Javan redefines hospitality along with providing authentic Persian cuisine. From the lightly marinated white fish kabob or its many chicken dishes, distinct flavors of spices add to the experience of each entrée. Lamb and beef dishes round out the full menu of possibilities. Try ghormeh sabzi (spinach and beef), or koobideh (beef skewers), and don’t forget the Basmati rice.

9. Carousel (Lebanese/Armenian) 304 N. Brand Blvd., Glendale carouselrestaurant.com

Famed Carousel Restaurant serves up delicious and authentic Middle Eastern cuisine, with distinct Lebanese and Armenian dishes. Prepare for a feast and order a variety of dishes, including beef kafta (Lula) kebab, shish tawook (chicken breast kebab), or lamb kastaleta. Order delicious mezza (appetizers) to begin the feast. Favorites include mutabbal (roasted eggplant), kebbeh nayyeh (Lebanese steak tartar), or my personal favorite, muhammara (a spicy dip made of crushed walnuts, red pepper paste, and pomegranate juice).

AFRICA

10. Nyala (Ethiopian) 1076 S. Fairfax Ave., L.A. nyala-la.com

Along Fairfax Avenue’s famous Little Ethiopia, one can find several restaurants serving up tastes of the homeland. Nyala is one of the best, with a menu featuring vegetarian, meat, poultry and seafood dishes. Order up a combination of various dishes, which will be served on a large platter. There are no utensils, only a basket of injera, a thick, pancake-like spongy bread that one uses to scoop up the various foods on the platter. With a bottle of Ethiopian wine, you’re in for an evening of great food, a relaxed atmosphere and friendly service.

11. Ngoma (African) 5358 Wilshire Blvd., L.A. ngomarestaurant.com

In order to experience the vast and diverse nature of culture and food on the African continent, Ngoma is the perfect choice for a dining experience at L.A.’s only Pan-African restaurant. From succulent curried chicken to incredibly fresh greens and spicy and tender potatoes, try this safari of food. Attracting both African immigrants and Americans interested in African cuisine, the menu draws from West, East and South Africa.

12. Tagine (Moroccan) 132 Robertson Blvd., Beverly Hills taginecuisine.com

Intimate and warm, Tagine welcomes travelers and offers an extraordinary taste of food from Morocco, the crossroads of Europe, Africa and the Middle East. A tasting menu, available during the week but exclusively on Fridays and Saturdays, brings together wonderfully aromatic and flavorful Moroccan cuisine with new tastes, such as chicken wrapped in pastry. Try the chicken or turkey khotban or kefta (ground beef with parsley, cumin, and red onion). Not to be missed, the tasting menu is created with fresh market foods, so the changing dishes offer returning foodies something new to look forward to on each visit.

EUROPE

13. TAIX (French) 1911 Sunset Blvd., L.A. taixfrench.com

Taix, L.A.’s oldest family owned and operated country French brasserie, has been a favorite gathering spot for local business people, residents and visitors alike for 81 years, and is conveniently located minutes from The Music Center and all that Downtown has to offer. The restaurant and lounge is known for its award-winning and discounted wine list with over 500 selections to choose from. Come and see why Taix is what The New York Times calls “L.A.’s Best Kept Secret.”

14. Traktir (Russian) 8151 Santa Monica Blvd., WeHo 323/654-3030

Authentic Russian food right in the middle of West Hollywood is not surprising, considering the large immigrant Russian population in the neighborhood. Considered one of the best Russian eateries, Traktir is filled with natives enjoying borscht, pork chops (incredible!) and more. You know it must be good when everyone around you is speaking Russian, and of course, don’t miss the wide variety of vodka!

15. Ulysses Voyage (Greek) 6333 W. 3rd St., L.A. www.ulyssesvoyage.com

Prepare for a gastronomical odyssey with authentic Greek and Mediterranean cuisine at this establishment located at L.A.’s famed Farmer’s Market, where the extensive menu embraces the available produce. Try moussaka (roasted potatoes, eggplant and zucchini in béchamel sauce) or traditional souvlaki (skewers of chicken, lamb or beef, paired with rice pilaf, asparagus and green beans). Enjoy the live music on Friday and Saturday evenings with a Mikonos, a concoction of Malibu rum and fruit juices.