EPICUREAN’S PARADISE

Fresh Flavors and Forbidden Fruit

Bryan Ogden produces a stunning winner with Apple

BY LIANA LEE

Apple Restaurant and Lounge, located on Robertson Boulevard just south of Santa Monica, is West Hollywood’s newest hotspot for fine dining and celeb-spotting. The restaurant’s ultra-modern but natural decor, including the exterior copper wall and flowing waterfalls, emanates elegance, tranquility and California style. The chic upstairs dining room, with views into Apple’s two bountiful wine cellars, is perfect for those romancing couples. The outdoor patio is great for groups to wine and dine, whether seated at the exclusive tasting cabana that overlooks the foot traffic on Robertson, or at the über comfy “cobra couch”, (the lengthy sofa resembling a cobra ready to strike). The attentive wait staff is trained to offer pairing suggestions from the extensive wine selection; if you’re no connoisseur, their input will add to your experience. If you prefer to venture beyond the wine cellar, their signature watermelon margarita is subtle and refreshing.

Executive Chef Bryan Ogden has designed a seasonally inspired contemporary American menu for fresh organic tastes. To start, we were served a tray of beautifully aligned bread selections. I first tried the biscuit infused with apple and thyme, the flavors of which, combined with the melting butter, was reminiscent of the Thanksgiving season. Also, the peppercorn and Parmesan square bread was delicious, and absolutely revved my palate for what was to come.

The frog leg appetizer was elegantly presented; the legs (lightly fried to tender perfection) were placed atop an olive crepe surrounded with a swirl of parsley froth. The full flavor of the chopped Kalamata olives greatly complemented the semi-sweet meat, and the parsley froth was essential to round off the two edgy flavors.

The night’s featured entrée was the triple seared Japanese Wagyu strip loin, served with spinach and shallots and a mushroom froth drizzle. The pink meat was melt-in-your-mouth tender. The crisp of the shallot and spinach leaves countered the meat’s melting with a crunchy texture, and the mushroom froth finished off the bite with a lovely earthy essence.

Before moving on to dessert, we were given a surprising palate cleanser: a small bowl of a light, flavorful melon soup surrounding a dollop of ice cream. After the first bite, my mouth experienced several crackling and tingling sensations. Pop Rocks candy was one of the soup’s central ingredients, making it a clever, light-hearted segue into dessert.

If you love cheesecake and can’t find the room for it, Apple’s crème fraiche spin on the classic dish is for you. The crème fraiche was light and creamy, supplying the rich luxurious flavors of a cheesecake without the guilt. Served with berries and sprinkled with rosemary, it was absolutely to die for.

The Apple Restaurant is a great spot for a full night of fun. After your meal check out the Apple Lounge, featuring jazz nights and burlesque shows performed by the new Los Angeles Pussycat Dolls, made famous for their edgy costumes and taunting performances.

Apple is the new one-stop spot for flirty fun and forbidden fruit.

Vital Info

Apple Restaurant and Lounge

665 N. Robertson Blvd., West Hollywood
310/358-9191; applerestaurantlounge.com
Cuisine: Contemporary American cuisine
The Scene: Celeb-friendly sophistication
Must Try: Triple seared Japanese Wagyu strip loin and sommelier suggestions
Cost: $$$

WHERE TO EAT

Porterhouse Bistro

Eschewing the usual steakhouse stuffiness, Porterhouse Bistro celebrates casual dining by offering a tempting menu, quality premium steaks and an atmosphere befitting a birthday celebration or a romantic rendezvous. The star of the menu is the prix fixe package, which includes sides, desserts and beverages. By comparing prices across the wide selection of steak, chicken, fish, lobster and rack of lamb, the prix fixe menu at $43.20 per person is a must-do deal. We shared a 26-oz Porterhouse steak—every bite was tender—complemented with delicious side dishes including the cinnamon-laced creamed corn and bowl of sautéed spinach. The first course, the La Brea Bakery baguette served with a medley of accompaniments, includes a tantalizing tapenade, tomato bruschetta, a whole roasted garlic flower, and butter—a tasty way to start off your meal. 8635 Wilshire Blvd., Beverly Hills. 310/659-1099. Steakhouse $$$$ —Tony Spano, Jr.

HOT PLATES

Breadbar: Breadbar began serving a new menu of exotic dishes thanks to the innovative menu ministrations of Chef Noriyuki Sugie. A few favorites: the crab guacamole with wild rice puffs and preserved lemon puree, black mussels in a chorizo and Thai basil coconut broth, and a succulent tea-smoked halibut served over bok choy. For dessert, try the peanut butter creme brulee or the luscious molten chocolate cake. The Century City location is also debuting a new wine/beer/sake menu compiled by master sommelier, Brian Cronin. Our favorites were the surprising Novy Syrah, which drinks more like a ladylike Cabernet, and the crisp Hitachino Red Rice Ale. 10250 Santa Monica Blvd., R-2 310/277-3770 JAPANESE CONTINENTAL FUSION $$$

Whist: The Viceroy Hotel’s Whist restaurant in Santa Monica has revamped their Sunday Brunch menu from buffet extravaganza to à la carte decadence. Start with a drink from their cocktail list, the Tall Glass of Water is comprised of the acai-infused Veev, fresh lime, and club soda, packing a playful punch. Chef de Cuisine Brent Hammer incorporates Farmer’s Market ingredients, so ask if the Viceroy ‘Green’ Bloody Marys (prepared from fresh green tomatoes) are available. The roasted vegetable and shrimp enchiladas, wrapped in a crepe in lieu a tortilla and topped with creamy hollandaise, are divine. If you have a sweet tooth, the malted waffle “sundae” is guaranteed to please; the extra malty Belgian waffle is topped with frozen Greek yogurt and fresh seasonal fruit. 1819 OCEAN AVE. 310/260-7511. AMERICAN $$

Salades de Provence: For months we drove by this charming little French place but when we finally stopped in for lunch we bemoaned the delay, because Salades de Provence is near perfect as far as French cafes go. The food is fresh, delicious, and beautifully prepared. Check out the soups and quiches du jour for the quintessential lunch combo, paired with one of their inspired salads. We especially love the quiche Lorraine with the salad Mediterranéenne, washed down with Orangina and followed by a foamy cappuccino. They also serve up a lovely little brunch, and are open seven days a week for breakfast, lunch, and dinner. It’s the kind of place where you want to take your time to savor the flavors and the ambiance, so do. 1040 LA CIENEGA BLVD. 310/657-9696 FRENCH $

Kabuki: With sake sommelier Yuji Matsumoto joining the Kabuki family, these sushi hotspots offer more than just delicious cuisine. In addition to sake-infused takes on popular cocktails (try the creamy peach saketini), Matsumoto also exposes patrons to the advantages of pairing sakes with food items on the menu. Thanks to Chef Masa Kurihara’s new premium rolls and “box sushi” creations (named after their rectangular presentation), this culinary endeavor is more than delectable. Kurihara’s culinary approach of coalescing the simple and experimental is most evident in the execution of the hamachi sake box sushi. Also to be tried is the sweet and savory paradise roll, harmonizing mango, smoked salmon, and cream cheese. With 12 locations in three states, you’re never far from a sake-licious evening! Find one near you at kabukirestaurants.com. JAPANESE/SUSHI $$

Bombay Grill: We eschew more elaborate Indian restaurants in favor of the fantastic food, friendly service, and mom-and-pop charm of Bombay Grill. The velvety and flavorful chicken tikka masala is far and above the best in town, and comes with some truly outstanding naan bread that is freshly made in front of your eyes. All main dishes come with vegetable of the day, and there are plenty of delicious veggie side dishes, such as gobi aloo (cauliflower and potatoes cooked in spices) to be had. Two people can eat well for less than $25, with room for leftovers. It just doesn’t get any better. 7306 1/4 SANTA MONICA BLVD. 323/874-3366 INDIAN $

Kokomo Café: Long a gay staple at Farmer’s Market on Third, Kokomo Café has moved to more modern, stylish digs at Beverly and Martel. We love its chocolate and turquoise color scheme, more convenient location, and especially, the food! The menu is more expansive at this location, though still offering Kokomo classics such as the roasted tomato soup and scrumptious patty melt. We are devotees of their Cajun-infused breakfast offerings, especially the eggs Sardou—similar to eggs Benedict only with artichoke and spinach in lieu of ham—and the fantastic low-carb omelette (egg whites with smoked turkey, goat cheese, spinach, and tomatoes). This may be our favorite breakfast/lunch find in some time. P.S. Kokomo is now a star, featured as the Peach Pit in the new Beverly Hills: 90210. 7385 BEVERLY BLVD. 323/933-0773 CALIFORNIA DINER $