Oahu, the island that is home to Hawaii’s cosmopolitan capital city, Honolulu, is also a tropical paradise of epic proportions

BY KORINA JOCHIM

Ask many to conjure up the island of Oahu and you will likely get pelted with pop-culture references: the iconic theme song of Hawaii 5-0; Magnum P.I.; Fantasy Island; Don Ho; or more recently, Dog the Bounty Hunter, Blue Crush, and Lost. Most mainlanders would view Oahu as synonymous with Waikiki, the dense, highly developed cityscape bordering white sand beaches, lapped by the crystalline waters of the Pacific. And though we appreciate the cultural richness of Waikiki, as well as the excellent shopping (with lower sales tax than California!), we’d like to present an alternative view of the island, that of rainforests and reefs, North Shore waves and shrimp trucks, long drives along the Pali highway and afternoons kayaking. The side that precious few tourists ever see.

We recommend beginning your visit in Waikiki as it’s the ideal transition from hectic L.A. life to laid-back island time. There are many, many accommodations vying for your tourist buck; where you choose to hang your sarong and flip-flops greatly depends on who you are and what you’re looking for. If family fun—conveniently located directly across from Waikiki Beach and many, many restaurants and shops—is what you’re after, try the Hyatt Regency Waikiki Beach Resort and Spa (808/923-1234; www.waikiki.hyatt.com). Located on Kalakaua Avenue, the main beachfront drag, the Hyatt doubles as a shopping mall, with oodles of stores, including several restaurants, a great gym, the delicious Kimo Coffee, and even two of the ubiquitous ABC Stores (www.abcstores.com), which will supply you with everything from bottled water to sunblock to postcards to snacks during your stay. You can also arrange a plethora of outdoor and water activities, such as surfing with Waikiki legend Dane Kealoha, through the concierge desk. Waikiki’s famous Kapiolani Park is just up the road, perfect for picnics, exercise, and other recreation. The Diamond Head Crater hike is also minutes away, providing a healthy dose of exercise and the best views of the coastline.

If you’re traveling as a couple, in a group of friends, or solo, try our favorite little boutique hotel, the Wyland Waikiki (808/954-4000; www.wylandwaikiki.net). Inspired by (and outfitted with) the work of prolific marine artist Wyland, this smaller hotel is a few blocks from the hustle and bustle of Kalakaua Avenue, but still just minutes from the shoreline. We loved the undersea theme mixed with ultramodern décor, and appreciated the excellent amenities such as free Internet, quiet pool and Jacuzzi area adjacent to a happening mini-lounge, Kimo Coffee onsite, and the fantastic in-house Spada Bar & Restaurant. The Wyland is a stylish little respite from the nonstop action of Waikiki, and a perfect home base from which to explore the city.

Be sure to get in a few great meals while in Waikiki, as it’s truly become a culinary capital of the U.S. Hawaii chefs have the edge in terms of the superior raw materials they have to work with—some of the world’s most flavorful fruits, vegetables, and seafood are to be sourced here. One of our favorite new haunts is now RumFire (at the Sheraton Waikiki; www.rumfirewaikiki.com). Their tapas menu is mind-blowing and you’ll want to try as many dishes as possible, paired with their creative cocktails, such as the lavender and cucumber mojito. If you’re a sushi lover, don’t miss the inventive Japanese/Cuban fusion flavor of Doraku Sushi (808/922-3323; www.sushidoraku.com), located in the Royal Hawaiian Center.

While staying in Waikiki, peel your aussieBum-clad rumps off those chaise lounges by the pool and out for some full- or half-day trips to explore nearby nature. We had a great time on one of Bike Hawaii’s (www.bikehawaii.com) rainforest hike and bike tours. Our guide, Mattias, had an enormous knowledge of local flora and fauna, and took us expertly through a lush rainforest in Manoa, above Honolulu. They can also take you snorkeling and kayaking! For the truly adventurous, take a kayak or windsurf board out on the windward side of the island, with Kailua Sailboards and Kayaks (www.kailuasailboards.com). The Pacific is choppier on this side of the island, in marked contrast to the glassy, smooth waves of Waikiki, so unless you are very skilled in open-ocean kayaking, we suggest taking the guided tours. The water in Kailua is the most striking color on all of Oahu—turquoise banded with lapis blue—and you should see a few honu (large sea turtles). Be sure to wear plenty of sunblock and a decent hat, or you will regret it. Even the drive over to Kailua is awe-inspiring, as you pass through the indescribably beautiful Pali Highway—definitely the scenic route.

When you’ve tired of the city life (even if the city is as altogether pleasant and nature-adjacent as Honolulu), rent a car and head for the North Shore. Famous for its fall and winter-time epic waves at renowned surf spots Sunset Beach, Banzai Pipeline, and Waimea Beach—the surf is quite flat during other parts of the year, just FYI. But even if you don’t put in an appearance that coincides with one of the international surfing contests, there is still more to do than you will probably even have time for. First up is a stop through the Dole Pineapple Plantation (www.dole-plantation.com) to wander the labyrinth and partake of a generous helping of pineapple ice cream, unique to Hawaii and a thrill for your taste buds. After you have drunk in the beauty of the countryside to your satisfaction, stop in to the historic town of Hale’iwa (pronounced hall-eh-eeva) for lunch and a little window shopping. We recommend stopping by Macky’s Shrimp Truck (66-632 Kamehameha Hwy.; www.mackyshrimptruck.com) for the sweetest, freshest plate of shrimp you’re likely to ever taste. It’s also worth a trip or two to Aoki’s Shave Ice (66-117 Kamehameha Hwy.; 808/637-7017)—again, one of those treats that can only be authentically found on the islands—which is better and less crowded than the nearby Matsumoto’s.

There aren’t many hotels to be found on the North Shore—Turtle Bay Resort (808/293-8811; www.turtlebayresort.com) is the biggest and best, located about 15 minutes north of Hale’iwa Town. We suggest renting an ocean villa or beach cottage over staying in the main building, and taking full advantage of the 5 miles of beachfront property. If you walk along the shoreline in either direction you will find yourself the sole inhabitant of pristine beaches… this is really what island relaxation is all about. Ask the concierge for suggestions for nearby hiking, or simply take the nature trail that winds around the resort. If you take one of the chill horseback tours offered by the resort, you’ll amble by Kawela Bay, made famous as a primary location for Lost. Other activities we recommend are a surf lesson through the famous Hans Hedemann's Surf School located onsite, or a glider ride for nonpareil views of the North Shore through Honolulu Soaring (808/ 637-0207; www.honolulusoaring.com) out at Dillingham Airfield, about 20 miles away.

While at Turtle Bay, or even if you opt not to stay there, be sure to eat at Ola once or twice. Located right along the bay, with some tables and chairs in the sand, this is Hawaiian cuisine at its very best—inventive, fresh, and unforgettable. The Mai Tais are the best and strongest we’ve had, anywhere—just make sure you don’t have to drive anywhere afterward! Also onsite is Palm Terrace, which offers a beautiful breakfast buffet and the incomparable macademia nut pancakes (again, one of those island specialties). You can also hit up the nearby Romy’s Kahuku Prawns & Shrim (56-781 Kamehameha Hwy.; 808/232-2202) for da kine (really, really good in pidgin Hawaiian) grub.

As is always the case, if you stay only a week, it will be time to go by the time you’ve fully relaxed and embraced the spirit of aloha, so try to allow yourself 10-14 days to truly enjoy this island paradise. A tip of L.A. drivers: Do not honk when you’re on the road in the islands, it’s considered the height of rudeness, and slow down! You don’t need to hurry here, and it will behoove you to greet passersby or flash them the “hang loose” sign (tucking your middle three fingers, and extending your pinky and thumb) to show you’re friendly. Oahu has great weather year-round, so there is never a bad time to visit, but if you plan to hit up the North Shore during the fall or winter, book well in advance. And most of all, experience the beauty of this island and its cultural traditions to the fullest; there is nowhere like it on Earth.

For more information and to plan a trip, visit the Oahu Visitors Bureau Web site at www.visit-oahu.com.