EPICUREAN’S PARADISE

World Class Cubano: Casa Don Rolando

BY VICTORIA LANE

Residing in a little city called North Hills is the brand new restaurant, Casa Don Rolando, created by renowned Rolando Gonzales, the former executive chef at Jennifer Lopez’s Madre’s. Do not let the area fool you. Casa is a little gem, regardless of the less-than-glamorous neighborhood.

With a dedicated parking lot and a charming, rustic design, Casa Don Rolando is an earthy oasis in the midst of urban sprawl. It’s a small, cozy place with a very strong following only three months into opening, though it is still relatively quiet. With a liquor license on the way, patronage is sure to grow exponentially.

The menu hits closer to home for Chef Rolando. He takes from his Cuban heritage and joyfully shares the exotic, savory flavors with an occasional elegant flair, reminding us that he is a world-class talent.

Meals begin with a traditional Cuban cracker-like bread served with garlic infused olive oil. On the particular afternoon I visited, we were treated to a special fish soup not found on the menu. It had a very light tomato base with succulent, flakey white fish, avocados, and carrots. Even though it was sweltering outside, it was a very light, intoxicating gateway to what would be a much heartier meal. Hopefully, he inserts it into the menu or uses it as a regular special.

We next had a tour of the entire appetizer menu by partaking of the sampler, filled with chicken and beef empanadas, a Cuban tamale, papas rellenas (mashed potato balls filled with spiced ground beef and fried), ham croquettes, and a special fried yuca creation stuffed with some spicy, savory meat. I felt as if I had discovered new comfort food. Everything was indulgent and full of intense flavor.

When our main course came along, I wasn’t sure I’d be able to take another bite. But the beef dish placed before me, ropa vieja (shredded beef in a light tomato sauce with onions and peppers), served with both garlic white rice, congris (rice made with black beans), and two kinds of plantains was too irresistible to not at least nibble upon. They did not disappoint.

We merely scratched the surface of the entrees available. The menu is extensive with something for everyone, including a vegetarian section. Even with the modest exploration I had done, I fully understood why there is such a passionate following behind Chef Rolando. His culinary creativity was clear with his off-menu inventions so easily conjured on a whim. Even more charming was his contagious affection for his heritage, which he personally imparted during the presentation of certain food items.

Our spoiling wasn’t over with the entrée. We were presented with two deserts—Cuban flan and bread pudding. I also opted to partake in a Cuban coffee, having not had one in years. The flan was much better, in my opinion, than the Mexican variation. It was lighter and less rubbery, but the real triumph was the Cuban bread pudding. It was a perfect end to a big meal with a light, chilled almond flavor.

An added bonus to the sensational food is the unparalleled service. The staff is friendly, thoughtful, and eager to please. They are exceptionally knowledgeable about the food, making what could be a challenging journey through a foreign menu like being on a guided tour.

Vital Info

Casa Don Rolando

8755 Parthenia Pl., North Hills
818/920-2272; www.casadonrolando.com
The Scene Very casual, mostly locals and Cuban nationals
Must Try Hard to pick one thing but do not miss the Cuban styled bread pudding
Cost $$$

WHERE TO EAT

Kabuki

With sake sommelier Yuji Matsumoto joining the Kabuki family, these sushi hotspots offer more than just delicious cuisine. In addition to sake-infused takes on popular cocktails, (try the creamy peach saketini) Matsumoto also exposes patrons to the advantages of pairing sakes with food items on the menu. Thanks to Chef Masa Kurihara’s new premium rolls and “box sushi” creations (named after their rectangular presentation), this culinary endeavor is more than delectable. Kurihara’s culinary approach of coalescing the simple and experimental is most evident in the execution of the Hamachi Sake box sushi. The layering of salmon, crab, and yellowtail topped with a dollop of hot sauce obliterates the need for soy or wasabi. Also to be tried is the sweet and savory Paradise Roll, harmonizing mango, smoked salmon, and cream cheese. With 12 locations in three states, you’re never far from a sake-licious evening! Find one near you at www.kabukirestaurants.com. JAPANESE/SUSHI $$ —BRIAN PADGETT

HOT PLATES

Bombay Grill: We eschew more elaborate Indian restaurants in favor of the fantastic food, friendly service, and mom-and-pop charm of Bombay Grill. The velvety and flavorful chicken tikka masala is far and above the best in town, and comes with some truly outstanding naan bread that is freshly made in front of your eyes. All main dishes come with vegetable of the day, and there are plenty of delicious veggie side dishes, such as gobi aloo (cauliflower and potatoes cooked in spices) to be had. Two people can eat well for less than $25, with room for leftovers. It just doesn’t get any better. 7306 1/4 SANTA MONICA BLVD. 323/874-3366 INDIAN $

Kokomo Café: Long a gay staple at Farmer’s Market on Third, Kokomo Café has moved to more modern, stylish digs at Beverly and Martel. We love its chocolate and turquoise color scheme, more convenient location, and especially, the food! The menu is more expansive at this location, though still offering Kokomo classics such as the roasted tomato soup and scrumptious patty melt. We are devotees of their Cajun-infused breakfast offerings, especially the eggs Sardou—similar to eggs Benedict only with artichoke and spinach in lieu of ham—and the fantastic low-carb omelette (egg whites with smoked turkey, goat cheese, spinach, and tomatoes). This may be our favorite breakfast/lunch find in some time. P.S. Kokomo is now a star, featured as the Peach Pit in the new Beverly Hills: 90210. 7385 BEVERLY BLVD. 323/933-0773 CALIFORNIA DINER $

Chipotle: I have a friend who refuses to eat Mexican food anymore, complaining of being confronted by too many plates of indistinguishable bean-y, cheesy goop. I couldn’t completely disagree with his observation until a recent visit to Chipotle. Supporting their manifesto “Food with integrity,” Chipotle offers gourmet flavor with high-quality ingredients (like sustainable produce and naturally raised, antibiotic-free chicken—trust me, you can taste the difference)—at lightening-fast service. The marinated chicken burritos with roasted chili-corn salsa are beyond delicious and rank among the city’s best. The carb-conscious can skip the tortilla with a low-cal fajita bowl. And I don’t have space to describe the delicious margaritas! Suffice to say, Chipotle gives fast food a good name. There are over 60 locations in SoCal. Find one near you at www.chipotle.com. $

The Waffle: Comfort food with high-quality, artisan ingredients, late-night hours, and deliciously modern décor? Yes, please. Lesbian Chef Scooter Kanfer delivers the goods with her reinvention of the American diner, and we really feel the love digging into culinary creations such as the cornmeal jalapeño waffle with crispy boneless chicken breast, old-school greens and brown gravy, the blueberry lemon waffle, and Scooter’s famous mac & cheese. The daily Blue Plate specials are out of this world, and The Waffle even extends the love to those of us with food allergies, with such lip-smacking offerings as the vegan Ruben, gluten-free waffle, and nondairy milkshake. Did we mention there’s also a full bar, and you can get breakfast any time of day? Almost too much goodness here—we hope Chef Scooter opens more locations. 6255 W. SUNSET BLVD. 323/465-6901 AMERICAN DINER $$

California Vegan: Carnivores rejoice! Should your eco-conscious new lover pull the vegetarian test on you, ride-share them over to this Thai/Chinese-inspired restaurant and spare yourself from the overpriced and tasteless vegan stereotypes. For although there is no meat or dairy to be found within the confines of this karma conscious kitchen, you'll hardly notice because their soy and seitan meat substitutes are surprisingly close to the real thing. With a few exceptions, even the most die-hard meat eaters will find the food here tasty and hearty enough to spare you the McDonald's run afterwards—and if you grab a lunch or dinner special, it will cost about the same. 7300 W. SUNSET BLVD. 323/874-9079 THAI/CHINESE $

Peninsula Beverly Hills Afternoon Tea: Anglophiles needn’t whinge on anymore about how all the cream tea places are over in Santa Monica—the Peninsula Beverly Hills has two seatings every day at 2:30 and 5 p.m. Set in their gracious living room, with accompaniment by a live harpist and overlooking the garden, you can nestle on the comfy couches, nibbling scones with clotted cream and strawberries interspersed with delicate sips of their fine teas. The finger sandwiches are nonpareil, and in all honesty, better than anything the U.K. has to offer. All the refinement, but in your own backyard. 9882 S. SANTA MONICA BLVD. 310/551-2888 ENGLISH $$