This island haven off the coast of Hong Kong is touted as the ‘Las Vegas of the East,’ yet it’s so much more

BY LAWRENCE FERBER

I’m walking along the cobblestone streets of Macau, a peninsula and two islands located 45 minutes via ferry from Hong Kong. A slushy, Taiwanese fruit drink in my hand, I admire the juxtaposition of Portuguese and Chinese architecture—Macau was once a major trading hub settled by the Portuguese in the 1500s and reclaimed by China in 1999—and ponder everything I’ve read and heard in the past few years: is this earthy, history-rich place really what they’re touting as the “Las Vegas of the East?”

Sure, Macau is a gambler’s haven. A small cluster of casinos (owned by Hong Kong’s uber-rich Stanley Ho) evolved into a sort of kudzu circa 2005, overtaking expanses of land with partly American-owned upscale hotel/gambling developments including a Wynn, Sands, MGM Grand, Sofitel at Pointe 16, and the massive new Venetian, the world’s largest casino complex. Yet Macau has eclipsed Las Vegas and the entire state of Nevada revenue-wise thanks to its hard-gambling nouveau riche Chinese visitors—some high roller had lost $10 million over three nights during my stay—and it boasts something that Vegas doesn’t: a genuine, unique local culture.

Those cobblestones are genuine Portuguese rock, which previously served as ballast on cargo ships and was put to good use upon the vessels’ landing. Macanese cuisine is a savory, tasty fusion of Chinese and Portuguese (as well as Indian and Malay), including the famed egg custard tarts. A handful of important UNESCO World Heritage sites/attractions and museums exist, while Mainland China’s Zhuhai Shi city—and its inexpensive shopping—is a border crossing away. Plus Pousada de Sao Tiago (853/2837-8111; www.saotiago.com.mo), a boutique property built into a 17th Century fort, literally blends history with incomparably luxe, artful design and comforts including leather-tiled floors and massive rainforest showers and steam rooms. And of course, no visit would be complete without a jaunt to Hong Kong (see sidebar).

Macau even has its own currency, the Pataca, although Hong Kong dollars are exclusively used within casinos and accepted by other businesses. Gays and lesbians are everywhere, evident from the moment I step into the MGM Grand (853/8802-8888; www.mgmgrandmacau.com), a stunning, wavy 600-room complex overlooking the South China sea and a lengthy bridge leading to Taipa (one of Macau’s two islands—the other is Coloane).

I spot numerous same-sex couples, LGBT casino employees, and even a handful of sassy Thai ladyboys (peddling their wares and mincing outside the Wynn) within my first day. Yet… no gay bars. Not even a gay-designated party night. I’m shocked when I hear this, but apparently Macau’s sole gay bar closed, and nothing has sprung up in its place. Locals seeking queer nightlife exodus to Hong Kong on weekends. However, I’m told that Cirque du Soleil is installing several productions, including a permanent one, ZAIA, in the Venetian come late August, so a homo bar/party is inevitable by fall.

I can’t say enough about the MGM’s Six Senses Spa, where I enjoyed a massage treatment and a couple of hours in their “sensory”-themed pools and environment rooms including a feverish Turkish hammam with a simulated starry sky above, and “Snow Room” that was covered in icy, soft snow. The MGM’s central skylit atrium, a simulated Portuegeuse square, resembles an adult Disneyland: colorful, oversized dragonfly sculptures swarm in midair around equally fantastical flowers. Stunning design is a constant, from the pastry at their swoon-inducing Patisserie, numerous flawless restaurants including open-kitchen international heaven Rossio (do not miss their breakfast!), and the downright cinematic Veuve Clicquot cocktail lounge, which is favored by the gays.

Unlike Vegas, I notice a less jovial, more intense vibe throughout the casinos. At many tables not a word is exchanged between dealer and players; one-armed bandits aren’t too popular either. The Venetian, with its singing gondoliers, faux canals, and simulated daylight inches closest to the deliriously grinning, manufactured kitsch of Vegas, but with better shopping and prices. In fact, Macau is across the board less pricey than Hong Kong—quite a plus I have to say.

I tried two restaurants at the Venetian. The Blue Frog (853/2882-8281; www.bluefrog.com.cn/macao) glowed with cobalt hues, and offered a lovely Western/international menu. A sibling of London and Hong Kong’s outstanding Zuma, Roka (853/2882-5666; www.rokarestaurant.com), a Japanese Robatayaki (grill/barbecue), was both glamorous and delicious. More local, menu-wise, was Hotel Lisboa’s Portas do Sol (2-4 Avenida de Lisboa; www.hotelisboa.com), a giant Chinese restaurant. Perfectly lovely Peking duck was served as an all-white Western cover band fronted by a balding Bill Murray lookalike played for a crowd of Chinese ballroom dancers who worked the floor. I heart hotel lounge bands!

The Ruins of St. Paul is Macau’s most iconic historical attraction, a giant façade—it’s all that survived an 1835 fire—this was where Catholic missionaries set up shop during the 1600s. Indoor sections house a crypt and religious artwork. Just down St. Paul’s front steps is Senado Square, which bustles with commerce, schoolkids, and plenty of food including a massive variety of jerky (wild boar of meat! spicy piglet!), and that frozen Taiwanese fruit slushy I mentioned.

Although mainland China’s smoggy industrial output has cursed Macau and Hong Kong with hazy skies most days, the Macau Tower (853/2893-3339; www.macautower.com.mo) entails a worthy stop; you can bungee jump from its observation floor (an uber-butch lesbian was part of the bungee crew). The incense-steeped A-Ma Temple (Rua de Sao Tiago da Barra) is another must.

I visited the Old Protestant Cemetery (Camoes Garden, Praca Luis de Camoes) and was struck by how many gravestones noted the deceased had perished by “A Fall From Aloft.” Was this a euphemism for “knocked off?” The intense Red Market, where live fish meet the cleaver in front of your eyes (an elderly Chinese woman walked by me with a plastic shopping bag that suddenly spasmed), Chinese tea houses, and numerous Dim Sum and Macanese restaurants filled my visit with authentic daily life and culture. I can’t say enough about restaurant António (853/2899-9998; www.antoniomacau.com), a rustic, homey Portuguese outpost run by the wacky, welcoming chef António Coelho, and the superb albeit tourist-packed Macanese Restaurante Litoral (261A Rua do Almirante Sergio; 853/2896-7878): the saucy Afrikan Chicken is an absolute, addictive must. And do sample my favorite Macanese dessert, Serradura (sawdust pudding): a creamy, light concoction coated and layered with dusty cookie crumbles.

For more information on Macau, please visit www.macautourism.gov.mo.

Exodus to Hong Kong

To get in your gay, a visit to the nearby cosmopolitan hub is a must

Hong Kong is no gamble: it’s a guaranteed win. One of the world’s most energetic, fashionable, and densely populated cities (split into two halves: H.K. Island and Kowloon), its your hub to and from Macau. Perfectly located and gorgeously renovated, the Mandarin Oriental(852/2522-0111; www.mandarinoriental.com) is top-notch, and not just the rooms: superb restaurants, a don’t-miss bakery, and a high tea popular with local gays. The ifc Mall, one of HK’s best indoor shopping/entertainment centers, is just across the street. Lunch at ifc’s lovely Thai-Vietnamese fusion restaurant LIAN (852/2521-1117; www.maxims.com.hk) is delicious, especially the soft shell crab rolls with gorgeously green avocado slices within a translucent rice wrapper.

Much less pricey than the Mandarin, Kowloon’s boutique property, Luxe Manor (852/3763-8888; www.theluxemanor.com) is coolly designed and just a few minutes walk from Sam’s Tailor (852/2367-9423; www.samstailor.com). With his intuitive guidance and taste, impressive roster of clients (Kylie Minogue, Karl Lagerfeld, even California’s own Gavin Newsom!), and fantastic prices, Sam is the only Hong Kong tailor I would vouch for. For an unbeatable sky-high view of H.K. Island and great food, Aqua’s (852/3427-2288; www.aqua.com.hk) modern design and scrumptious Japanese cuisine is your best bet.

As for HK’s buzzing gay nightlife, lesbians should definitely catch the monthly party Les Peches (e-mail lespechesinfo@yahoo.com for when and wheres) and boys visit current hotspot Volume (83-85 Hollywood Rd.; www.volume.com.hk). Download the latest issue of bilingual gay magazine Dim Sum (www.dimsum-hk.com) and buy the excellent Time Out Hong Kong and comb through their club listings. Jackpot! —L.F.