EPICUREAN’S PARADISE

One Steak House to Rule Them All?: STK

BY MICHAEL EPSTEIN & SCOTT SCHWIMER, AKA “THE FABULOUS DINING DUO”

STK is a hot scene; at least that’s what we’re hearing on the street, and everyone from L.A.’s royalty—the Beckhams to Cindy Crawford to Reese Witherspoon—seem to agree. We won’t argue with them but we do take a few exceptions.

We’ll start with the best part and work our way down. The space is magnificent. The main room is composed of white and black booths, flanked by a heavily white painted brick wall that boasts giant horns. OK, so maybe it was the horns that got us all worked up, but the hanging lights that seemed to float above the tables also set the mood. The room is centered by some burst of branches and flowers that complemented the surroundings. You can’t help but be in awe of the setting.

Next best thing: Andrew, our waiter. He’s only 22, but carries himself like a seasoned professional. He knows what’s good on the menu, and what’s not. He knows about wine. He knows something about everything. (He’s cute too.)

Going down the priority list, but still on the “pretty darn good” side of the inventory, is the memorable foie gras French toast ($18). Just the combination of the names “French toast” and “foie gras” conjures up a taste sensation that truly delivers. It’s their flagship dish, and we understand why. Michael enjoyed his beef tartare with truffle oil sauce ($16) because of its chunky texture, especially since it was paired with homemade potato chips, proving to be a unique preparation.

The side orders were the most eventful part of the dinner. The mac & cheese with truffles ($8+$20 for the truffles) was amongst the best we have ever tasted; it was creamy and delivered just the right hint of truffle, without overpowering the dish. The sweet corn pudding was exquisite, flavorful, and filling but light at the same time; a sensational blend of corn and not overly sweet.

The fish of the day on one occasion was halibut (very fairly priced at $28) and it was fresh but the chef—or whoever was really cooking it—was so heavy handed with the salt that it burned our tongues for most of the evening. The potato concoction and the asparagus, which accompanied it, were uneventful and uninspired. We also felt that the meal fell apart at the desert stage. The Peanut Butter Cup was just OK, and the bread pudding ($10) was unmemorable but tasty.

And so what was the worst part of our experiences at STK: their horrific valet parkers. The wait was long, the cost expensive, and the reception nonexistent (they should take a lesson from the Bastide valet across the street). While we were waiting for our cars, a couple of people recognized us and asked what we thought of the place. We threw the question back at them, and they said, “It was good, but we wouldn’t rush back.” No rushing in for us either.

For more Dining Duo check out their blog at www.thediningduo.blogspot.com

Vital Info

STK

755 La Cienega Blvd.
310/659-3535; www.stkhouse.com
The Cuisine High-end steak houseThe Scene L.A. scenesters of every ilk
Must Try Foie gras French toast
Cost $$$

HOT PLATES

The Waffle: Comfort food with high-quality, artisan ingredients, late-night hours, and deliciously modern décor? Yes, please. Lesbian Chef Scooter Kanfer delivers the goods with her reinvention of the American diner, and we really feel the love digging into culinary creations such as the cornmeal jalapeño waffle with crispy boneless chicken breast, old-school greens, and brown gravy, the blueberry lemon waffle, and Scooter’s famous mac & cheese. The daily Blue Plate specials are out of this world, and The Waffle even extends the love to those of us with food allergies, with such lip-smacking offerings as the vegan Ruben, gluten-free waffle, and nondairy milkshake. Did we mention there’s also a full bar, and you can get breakfast any time of day? Almost too much goodness here—we hope Chef Scooter opens more locations. 6255 W. SUNSET BLVD. 323/465-6901 AMERICAN DINER $$

California Vegan: Carnivores rejoice! Should your eco-conscious new lover pull the vegetarian test on you, ride-share them over to this Thai/Chinese-inspired restaurant and spare yourself from the overpriced and tasteless vegan stereotypes. For although there is no meat or dairy to be found within the confines of this karma conscious kitchen, you’ll hardly notice because their soy and seitan meat substitutes are surprisingly close to the real thing. With a few exceptions, even the most die-hard meat eaters will find the food here tasty and hearty enough to spare you the McDonald’s run afterwards—and if you grab a lunch or dinner special, it will cost about the same. 7300 W. SUNSET BLVD. 323/874-9079 THAI/CHINESE $

Peninsula Beverly Hills Afternoon Tea: Anglophiles needn’t whinge on anymore about how all the cream tea places are over in Santa Monica—the Peninsula Beverly Hills has two seatings every day at 2:30 and 5 p.m. Set in their gracious living room, with accompaniment by a live harpist and overlooking the garden, you can nestle on the comfy couches, nibbling scones with clotted cream and strawberries interspersed with delicate sips of their fine teas. The finger sandwiches are nonpareil, and in all honesty, better than anything the U.K. has to offer. All the refinement, but in your own backyard. 9882 S. SANTA MONICA BLVD. 310/551-2888 ENGLISH $$

Luckyfish: Just the mere idea of kaiten-zushi—conveyer belt snaking through a restaurant and delivering fresh sushi and other Japanese treats—is a dream come true: a Disneyland for sushi-lovers. Luckyfish is no pokey joint either—it’s all high-style and high-tech, with fortunately low prices. Perfect for impressing a lunch date (they even offer bento boxes to go) or a special-occasion dinner. Luckyfish satisfies even the pickiest of palates, with ultra-fresh fish and creative twists on classic dishes. 338 N. CAÑON DR. 310/274-9800 SUSHI $$

Hokusai: Presented by the owners of Matsuhisa and Sushi Roku is an elegant experience that has sushi lovers buzzing with delight—Hokusai. Set in a cool, deco environment that meshes Gotham city aesthetics with hits of Asian influence, Hokusai is an energetic lunch spot full of industry professionals that transitions into a sensual, relaxed evening experience that doesn’t suffer from crowds. The seafood is incredibly fresh. The menu offers old favorites and takes flights of culinary fancies (chilled lobster with truffle oil) that vary in execution. The only caveat is that it is not a cheap experience, but is worth every penny. 8400 WILSHIRE BLVD. 323/782-9717 JAPANESE $$$$

86 Restaurant & Lounge: Tucked into the basement of an apartment complex is not where one expects to find the latest Hollywood hot spot. But that’s exactly where Rudolph Valentino’s former speakeasy is located—beneath the Hillcrest Apartments. Named after the term for exiting quickly through the back during a Prohibition police raid, 86 is the perfect marriage of old Hollywood glamour and new Hollywood chic. Even the crowd is dangerously sexy while sipping on classic cocktails and dining from a menu straight out of a bygone era—they even serve lobster thermador! As an added bonus, patrons can enjoy jazz music until midnight. 6533 HOLLYWOOD BLVD. 323/871-8634 CONTINENTAL $$$

WHERE TO EAT

Chipotle

I have a friend who refuses to eat Mexican food anymore, complaining of being confronted by too many plates of indistiguishable bean-y, cheesy goop. I couldn’t completely disagree with his observation until a recent visit to Chipotle. Supporting their manifesto “Food with integrity,’ Chipotle offers gourmet flavor with high-quality raw ingredients (like sustainable produce and naturally raised, antibiotic-free chicken—trust me, you can taste the difference) at lightening-fast service—and it’s all made to order right before your eyes. The marinated chicken burritos with roasted chili-corn salsa are beyond delicious—and rank among the city’s best. The carb-conscious can skip the tortilla with a low-cal fajita bowl. And I don’t have space to describe the delicious margaritas! Suffice to say, Chipotle gives fast food a good name. There are over 60 locations in SoCal. Find one near you at www.chipotle.com MEXICAN —JEREMY KINSER