EPICUREAN’S PARADISE

Downtown Treasure: J Restaurant & Lounge

BY VICTORIA LANE

Unless you’ve been living under a rock, you are aware of the great efforts to revitalize Downtown Los Angeles. It’s an area I typically avoid, as there’s so much traffic getting in and out. All the same, I was willing to give the ever-transforming area a chance. My first trip out to Downtown L.A. in years was to visit a spot called the J Restaurant & Lounge. It used to be an historic little place called Little J’s, known for its star-studded patronage. It sits on the very edge of the high-rise buildings thrusting into the sky that Angelenos identify with the city.

Upon entering, I was greeted by an interior that defied easy, quick labels. It was a world influenced by previous cultures and design movements but melded into something vaguely familiar yet entirely fresh. In many ways, it was the dark noir take on Miami Beach venues with fluttering curtains, candlelight, and secret shadowy corners cradled in espresso-stained wood.

I was early for dinner so I wandered about the venue, making my way to the gorgeous upstairs bar for a Raspberry Lemon Drop. I also ventured into the moody lounge area around the corner and imagined all the salacious little things I could do with my lover in one of the clearly intended-for-trouble shadowy spots. It probably isn’t that dark on busier nights when candles are lit.

The story of the chef responsible for the menu at the J Restaurant is a fascinating one. “Oz” Ramuco is from Mexico. A self-taught creator of culinary delights, he embraces a philosophy that contradicts his background—he doesn’t like spicy, hot food as he says it destroys flavor. His menu is made up of very subtle flavors. And the fact that he isn’t a product of a culinary academy shows in his unique perspective. My entrée was a marvelous Greek-inspired chicken in a lemon sauce served with couscous in a phyllo pastry shell.

The absolute gem of the J Restaurant was the sommelier, Frederic Hemon. I don’t encounter very many true sommeliers, much less ones from France with an impressive education in both culinary arts and spirits. His pairings were exotic and unexpected with both local selections as well as international wines. Do make full use of his incredible expertise and you will not be disappointed.

Dessert was the highlight for me. The Triple Chocolate Dome coupled with a Grenache Noir—a port-like liquor with a fairytale-like creation process—was heaven. Frederic told us that harvesting the special grapes for the Grenache was performed upon the back of donkeys, as they were the only creatures that could easily traverse the terrain. The liquid was then placed in a glass container to age on top of a roof for the cycle of one full year before being suitable to drink.

The trip downtown to J Restaurant & Lounge was so well worth the experience, that I may have to change my mind about the area.

Vital Info

The J Restaurant & Lounge

1119 South Olive St.
213/746-7746
www.jloungela.com
The Scene: Ultra sexy to conservative
Must Try: Triple Chocolate Dome
Cost $$$$

HOT PLATES

Luckyfish: Just the mere idea of kaiten-zushi—conveyer belt snaking through a restaurant and delivering fresh sushi and other Japanese treats—is a dream come true: a Disneyland for sushi-lovers. Luckyfish is no pokey joint either—it’s all high-style and high-tech, with fortunately low prices. Perfect for impressing a lunch date (they even offer bento boxes to go) or a special-occasion dinner. Luckyfish satisfies even the pickiest of palates, with ultra-fresh fish and creative twists on classic dishes. 338 N. CAÑON DR. 310/274-9800 SUSHI $$

Hokusai: Presented by the owners of Matsuhisa and Sushi Roku is an elegant experience that has sushi lovers buzzing with delight—Hokusai. Set in a cool, deco environment that meshes Gotham city aesthetics with hits of Asian influence, Hokusai is an energetic lunch spot full of industry professionals that transitions into a sensual, relaxed evening experience that doesn’t suffer from crowds. The seafood is incredibly fresh. The menu offers old favorites and takes flights of culinary fancies (chilled lobster with truffle oil) that vary in execution. The only caveat is that it is not a cheap experience, but is worth every penny. 8400 WILSHIRE BLVD. 323/782-9717 JAPANESE $$$$

86 Restaurant & Lounge: Tucked into the basement of an apartment complex is not where one expects to find the latest Hollywood hot spot. But that’s exactly where Rudolph Valentino’s former speakeasy is located—beneath the Hillcrest Apartments. Named after the term for exiting quickly through the back during a Prohibition police raid, 86 is the perfect marriage of old Hollywood glamour and new Hollywood chic. Even the crowd is dangerously sexy while sipping on classic cocktails and dining from a menu straight out of a bygone era—they even serve lobster thermador! As an added bonus, patrons can enjoy jazz music until midnight. 6533 HOLLYWOOD BLVD. 323/871-8634 CONTINENTAL $$$

Nirvana: If the Kama Sutra could be translated into a dining experience, it would look, taste, and feel something like Nirvana. On a quiet strip of Wilshire Boulevard, Nirvana delivers the goods: sumptuous dishes from all over India prepared by renowned Chef Ramanuj Sahai; sensuous, canopied tabled “beds” and libidinous murals; koi swimming languorously below a Siddartha-head fountain. Indulge in the crab tikki Malabar as “foreplay” for the award-winning chicken tikka masala, or the mind-blowing tandoori lobster. 8689 WILSHIRE BLVD. 310/657-5040 INDIAN $$$

Taste: Brunch is a whole new game in Los Angeles these days. Even better, it’s no longer an expensive endeavor if you are a bit of a gourmand. Taste on Melrose, a casual elegant restaurant serving up a buzz-worthy eclectic lunch and dinner, has a brunch that will knock your socks off yet leave you with enough money to pay rent. If you are an eggs Benedict fiend, do not miss the crab cake Benedict. Equally divine is the cremini mushroom & spinach lasagne. Tucked into what is literally a house, the atmosphere is stylishly laid back in that iconic California way. 8454 MELROSE AVE. 323/852-6888 CALIFORNIA CUISINE $$

Comme Ca: The buzz around Comme Ca ranges from the Prohibition-era cocktail menu straight out of the infamous Milk & Honey modern speakeasy in NYC to the little slice of Paris found on the menu. It’s a busy brasserie that is only just settling in from the usual new restaurant kinks. It’s loud and trendy. For Americans used to space while dining, the seating area is a bit cramped but this is not a romantic little café. It’s a celebration of food, drink, and life. A Rumble cocktail along with the mushroom risotto is a marvelous way to get into the spirit of things. Entrée highlights include goat cheese ravioli and steak frites. 8479 Melrose Ave. 323/782-1178 French $$$

WHERE TO EAT

Peninsula Beverly Hills’ Afternoon Tea

Anglophiles needn’t whinge on anymore about how all the cream tea places are over in Santa Monica—the Peninsula Beverly Hills has two seatings every day at 2:30 and 5 p.m., and it’s easily the best one in town. Set in their gracious living room, with accompaniment by a live harpist and overlooking the garden, you can nestle on the comfy couches, nibbling scones with clotted cream and strawberries interspersed with delicate sips of their fine teas. We love that each person gets their personal pot of tea, wrapped in a cozy and poured for you each time by the accommodating staff. The finger sandwiches are nonpareil, and in all honesty, better than anything the U.K. has to offer. All the refinement, but in your own backyard. 9882 S. SANTA MONICA BLVD., BEVERLY HILLS 310/551-2888 ENGLISH

—KORINA JOCHIM