Art and cultural experiences of the favorite cities for American gay travelers: London, Paris, and Barcelona

BY PATRICK EBERT

London: The White City

London is a magical city brimming with thousands of years of history, which is what I love most about it. Few European cities offer so much cultural heritage, yet don’t intimidate because of the language barrier. Londoners are very polite and helpful, just don’t expect them to be overly friendly.

There are hundreds of museums in London, so if museums are your thing, this is the place for you. Most are complimentary, so there is no need to purchase any type of museum pass. Favorites include the British Museum (www.britishmuseum.org), the Natural History Museum (www.nhm.ac.uk), the Victoria Albert Museum (www.vam.ac.uk), the National Portrait Gallery (www.npg.org.uk), the Tate Britain (www.tate.org.uk), and the Tate Modern (www.tate.org.uk/modern). My personal favorite is the British Museum, I did not expect to see so many great works under one roof: Michelangelo, Rembrandt, and Picasso to name a few.

One of my favorite tours is London Walking Tours Royalty Tour (www.walks.com), on which you see Green Park, the changing of the guards, the historic area of Queen Anne’s, and a thorough tour of Westminster Abbey (www.westminster-abbey.org). The guide was professional and charming, providing interesting anecdotes along the way.

For nightlife, London has a panoply of offerings. The strong populous of gay life is in Soho, but be warned, it can be a bit seedy in some areas. There are many bars, clubs, retail shops, sex shops, and restaurants in the area. Most bars close by midnight, but clubs are usually open until 3 or 4 a.m. We had a blast dancing at Lo-Profile (84 Wardour St., W1F 0TQ) in the heart of Soho; other hot clubs are the enduringly fantastic Heaven (www.heavenlondon.com) and the popular G-A-Y (www.g-a-y.co.uk).

Paris: City of Lights

Paris is truly one of the world’s most beautiful cities, but visitors should be prepared for rudeness and cutting remarks. Few people can deliver insults as quickly and thoroughly as an aged waiter at a Parisian restaurant. During this trip to Paris, I learned three important travel tips: 1) Learn a few basic French phrases and your trip will be much more pleasant. One helpful phrase is “Excusez-moi de vous deranger, monsieur (or madame),” which means “Excuse me for disturbing you, Sir (or Madam);” 2) The French are a proud people and they look down on apologizing and admitting they were wrong, so if you get bad customer service, don’t waste your time asking to speak to a manager, an employee will always win out over a customer; and 3) Parisians are not motivated by money, so if you want to coerce a Parisian to do something, the best way to convince them is by flirting. It’s also refreshing how gay-friendly it is—a gay couple can hold hands and kiss most anywhere in this city.

For me, the most significant museums are the Louvre (www.louvre.fr) and the Musee d’Orsay (www.musee-orsay.fr/en); the Centre Pompidou (www.cnac-gp.fr) is also well regarded for its modern collection. The Paris Museum Pass (www.parismuseum.com/en) is a best bet, since it offers you access to over 40 museums and historical sights in the greater Paris area, including Versailles (www.chateauversailles.fr), the Arc de Triomphe (www.arc-de-triomphe.monumentsnationaux.fr/en), and the Paris Sewer Museum (www.museums-of-paris.com/musee_en.php?code=407). I visited Versailles on this trip and was honestly a bit disappointed. It took a couple of hours to get there, lines were long, the place is disorganized (due to a restoration project) and many rooms felt empty. My advice to avoid sensory overload is to map out the top pieces you want to see in any museum and go through it at a steady pace.

For nightlife, the options in Paris are unmatched. The main gay area is the Marais, but there are over 60 bars and clubs in Paris. Le Raidd (www.raiddbar.com) in the Marais is a good pre-club. Similar to London, the clubs in Paris don’t open until 11 p.m. Covers are high and drinks are more expensive than bars. Some of the hottest clubs in Paris right now include Les Bains Douches (www.lesbainsdouches.net), BBB (the name stands for Blacks, Whites, Arabs) a gay, ethnic tea dance held on Sundays at La Locomotive (www.laloco.com), and Kaliente, held monthly at the famous Maxim’s (www.maxims-de-paris.com).

Barcelona: A Very Gaudi City

Barcelona is a laid back city with a strong, youthful feeling to it. Be prepared that in Barcelona, there are three predominant languages: Spanish, English, and Catalan. Thankfully, Barcelona is a modern city and most people speak English. It is important to note that Catalan people have great pride in their history and do not regard themselves as Spaniards. I mistakenly insulted our Catalan tour guide when I referred to her as Spanish.

Barcelona is a treasure trove for architecture fans. L’Eixample is the main gay area and has an unmistakable feel to it; blocks are almost square with diamond-shaped intersections. The most visible influence in Barcelona is from Antoni Gaudi, he designed highly elaborate lamp posts that line the streets, built several ornate buildings, and even designed the paving tiles with geometric and floral designs, which line the sidewalks. Gaudi’s famous Sagrada Familia (www.sagradafamilia.org), Casa Mila “La Pedrera” (www.fundaciocaixacatalunya.org), Casa Batllo (www.casabatllo.es), and Park Guell (Carrer Olot, Metro: Lesseps ) are required for architecture enthusiasts.

With respect to museums, I have three favorites: the Museu Picasso (www.museupicasso.bcn.cat/en), Fundación Joan Miró (www.bcn.fjmiro.es), and the Teatre-Museu Dalí (www.salvador-dali.org). The collection at the Picasso museum is massive; arrive early to avoid the lines. Dalí enthusiasts will want to take the one and a half hour train ride to Figueres to experience the Dalí museum.

If you are interested in the origins of Barcelona, I recommend the Gothic Quarter tour offered by BarcelonaWalks (www.bcnshop.barcelonaturisme.com /Barcelona-Walks-Gòtic). It offers a narrative tour of the ancient city and allows you the opportunity to ask questions of Barcelona natives.

Of the three cities, I found Barcelona to have the wildest nightlife. The clubs don’t start happening until 3 a.m. All four Arena bars—Arena Classic, Arena Dandy, Arena Madre, and Arena VIP (www.arenadisco.com)—and Metro (www.metrodiscobcn.com) were packed with lively crowds prepared to party all night. Be prepared, smoking in clubs is still legal in Barcelona and I was stunned to see 90% of the crowd smoking.

For fans of history and tradition, London is probably your best bet. Paris may be optimal if you love art and beauty with a little pomp, and Barcelona for architecture and modern art fans. Wherever you go, take time for a tour with a knowledgeable native and always check the local guides. The London and Barcelona club scenes are in transition, so pick up a local guide to check out the clubs before trekking out.