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EPICUREAN’S PARADISE
 A Secret No More: Whisper Lounge
BY VICTORIA LANE
Tucked away in a dimly lit alley of The Grove is a cozy
little homage to a bygone era called The Whisper Lounge.
Stepping inside is like being transported back to the 1940s.
Dark wooden walls surround the intimate indoor dining area.
Towering Art Deco-etched glass glows as it gives way to a
lively little bar in the center of the restaurant. On the
far side, a swanky patio sprawls in a slightly Moroccan nod,
the story told by that ‘40s aesthetic, with more seating
for dining or sipping unique cocktails. It was also one of
the few places in Los Angeles serving the poor man’s
version of Absinthe before the ban was lifted.
The Whisper Lounge has long been one of my favorite places
to haunt on late afternoons or evenings, though there was
a time I could take or leave the food as it was not up to
par. Imagine my great delight upon discovering that the menu
had finally been replaced. Now it is as epic, romantic, and
hedonistic as the divine little venue.
An incredibly inventive chef, Anthony Jacquet, formerly at
The Getty Museum, does things with food I didn’t even
know were possible. I didn’t react much at the first
item we tried; a standard albacore tuna tartare found on
dozens of menus. It wasn’t bad. It just wasn’t
anything new. And then a “soup and salad” platter
was placed before me that looked like art straight from a
fantasy novel—a harmony of heirloom beets, empire apples,
blue cheese vinaigrette, and butternut squash “cappuccino” with
apple foam and bacon. It was so incredible; I nearly lost
focus on the conversation I was involved in. From that point
on, nothing we were served was anything less than phenomenal.
The next three courses flew by in a series of mouth-watering
adventures. The house-made ricotta-herb agnolotti with wild
mushrooms and truffle broth was served to a chorus of satisfied
praise. It is not to be missed by anyone looking for something
utterly indulgent. The Maine diver scallops with “Forbidden
Rice,” glazed baby carrots, and spicy blood orange
vinaigrette was succulent. The crowning achievement of an
already stellar dinner was the red wine braised beef short
ribs with Parmesan gnocchi, caramelized root vegetables,
and natural jus.
Prominently featured throughout the menu was the mysteriously
named Forbidden Rice. I’ve never encountered it before.
It’s made of molasses and other items to form a savory
creation that augments the rich flavors Chef Jacquet favors.
I could have easily eaten an entire bowl of the rice alone
and been very content.
The stellar service staff punctuated the experience, complemented
by creative cocktails such as a blood orange margaritas and
watermelon mojitos. While the crowd at The Whisper Lounge
will always have a hint of tourist due to The Grove drawing
such crowds, the patrons are usually an eclectic bunch from
edgy rocker types to sophisticated denizens of the night.
Vital Info
The Whisper Lounge
189 The Grove Dr.
323/930-7860
www.whisperloungela.com
The Scene mixed—trendy and edgy with a smattering
of tourists
Must Try Forbidden Rice and ricotta-herb agnolotti
Cost $$$$
HOT PLATES
Hokusai: Presented by the owners of Matsuhisa and Sushi
Roku is an elegant experience that has sushi lovers buzzing
with delight—Hokusai. Set in a cool, deco environment
that meshes Gotham city aesthetics with hits of Asian influence,
Hokusai is an energetic lunch spot full of industry professionals
that transitions into a sensual, relaxed evening experience
that doesn’t suffer from crowds. The seafood is incredibly
fresh. The menu offers old favorites and takes flights of
culinary fancies (chilled lobster with truffle oil) that
vary in execution. The only caveat is that it is not a cheap
experience, but is worth every penny. 8400 WILSHIRE BLVD.
323/782-9717 JAPANESE $$$$
86 Restaurant & Lounge: Tucked into the basement of an
apartment complex is not where one expects to find the latest
Hollywood hot spot. But that’s exactly where Rudolph
Valentino’s former speakeasy is located—beneath
the Hillcrest Apartments. Named after the term for exiting
quickly through the back during a Prohibition police raid,
86 is the perfect marriage of old Hollywood glamour and new
Hollywood chic. Even the crowd is dangerously sexy while
sipping on classic cocktails and dining from a menu straight
out of a bygone era—they even serve lobster thermador!
As an added bonus, patrons can enjoy jazz music until midnight.
6533 HOLLYWOOD BLVD. 323/871-8634 CONTINENTAL $$$
Nirvana: If the Kama Sutra could be translated into a dining
experience, it would look, taste, and feel something like
Nirvana. On a quiet strip of Wilshire Boulevard, Nirvana
delivers the goods: sumptuous dishes from all over India
prepared by renowned Chef Ramanuj Sahai; sensuous, canopied
tabled “beds” and libidinous murals; koi swimming
languorously below a Siddartha-head fountain. Indulge in
the crab tikki Malabar as “foreplay” for the
award-winning chicken tikka masala, or the mind-blowing tandoori
lobster. 8689 WILSHIRE BLVD. 310/657-5040 INDIAN $$$
Taste: Brunch is a whole new game in Los Angeles these days.
Even better, it’s no longer an expensive endeavor if
you are a bit of a gourmand. Taste on Melrose, a casual elegant
restaurant serving up a buzz-worthy eclectic lunch and dinner,
has a brunch that will knock your socks off yet leave you
with enough money to pay rent. If you are an eggs Benedict
fiend, do not miss the crab cake Benedict. Equally divine
is the cremini mushroom & spinach lasagne. Tucked into
what is literally a house, the atmosphere is stylishly laid
back in that iconic California way. 8454 MELROSE AVE. 323/852-6888
CALIFORNIA CUISINE $$
Comme Ca: The buzz around Comme Ca ranges from the Prohibition-era
cocktail menu straight out of the infamous Milk & Honey
modern speakeasy in NYC to the little slice of Paris found
on the menu. It’s a busy brasserie that is only just
settling in from the usual new restaurant kinks. It’s
loud and trendy. For Americans used to space while dining,
the seating area is a bit cramped but this is not a romantic
little café. It’s a celebration of food, drink,
and life. A Rumble cocktail along with the mushroom risotto
is a marvelous way to get into the spirit of things. Entrée
highlights include goat cheese ravioli and steak frites.
8479 Melrose Ave. 323/782-1178 French $$$
Tangier: If you’ve long fantasized about an exotic,
romantic spot where Jazz and other music enchants the night
amidst the star-studded shadows, look no further than Tangier.
Every inch of the venue is simply gorgeous. The menu has
a few inventive moments such as a Spanish shrimp cocktail
and wild mushroom pasta (which is a mushroom lusting soul’s
prayer answered). The miso glazed black cod is a favorite
among regulars (and for good reason). If dinner sounds too
heavy and you’d like something more intimate or casual,
check out the lounge. A variety of musical acts—from
traditional jazz to rock—grace the stage where you
can also order small plates. 2138 HILLHURST AVE. 323/660-1033
CALIFORNIA CUISINE $$$
WHERE TO EAT
Luckyfish
Just the mere idea of kaiten-zushi—a conveyer belt
snaking through a restaurant and delivering fresh sushi and
other Japanese treats—is a dream come true: a Disneyland
for sushi-lovers. To our great delight, the newly opened
Luckyfish in Beverly Hills makes it a reality, monitoring
the freshness of its fish using special microchips in the
dishes and even mathematically calculating the most popular
dishes of that day and delivering more of them. Luckyfish
is no pokey joint either—it’s all high-style
and high-tech, with fortunately low prices. Perfect for impressing
a lunch date (they even offer bento boxes to go) or a special-occasion
dinner. Luckyfish satisfies even the pickiest of palates,
with ultra-fresh fish and creative twists on classic dishes.
338 N. Cañon Dr. 310/274-9800 www.luckyfishsushi.com Japanese $$ —KORINA JOCHIM
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