|
Two of Southern California’s crown gems—Santa
Barbara and La Jolla—offer natural beauty, fine dining,
and high style within a two-hour journey from L.A.
BY KORINA JOCHIM

Itinerary #1: Wine Tasting, Dining, and Soaking Up the Sunshine
in Santa Barbara
Friday, noonish
Pack up a rumpled linen suit, some bathing shorts, and your
most lived-in pair of jeans and head north. If you want
to go entirely green for your vacation, eschew your car
and hop on the Amtrak train (800/USA-RAIL; www.amtrakcalifornia.com)
in Burbank or downtown’s Grand Central Station and
enjoy a leisurely ride to Santa Barbara, catnapping in
the sun or drowsing over a new novel (it drops you off
in downtown Santa Barbara). If driving is what revs you
up, stop along the way at Camarillo Premium Outlets (805/445-8520;
www.premiumoutlets.com) to indulge in a little designer-discount
retail therapy to soothe those frayed city nerves. Also
check out Montecito, a luxe little town just south of Santa
Barbara. Nip in to Village Cheese & Wine (485 East
Valley Rd; 805/969-3815) for a couple of their famous sandwiches
(and a bottle for later). Enjoy your picnic and a stroll
along nearby Butterfly Beach. Sigh a lot as you soak up
the gorgeous views.
3 p.m.
Check into the recently revamped and utterly charming downtown
Canary Hotel (805/884-0300; www.canarysantabarbara.com).
Lazily unpack, enjoying the serene beauty and maritime
color palette of your room. Change into bathing attire
and head to the rooftop pool area to soak up the sun and
admire the incomparable views of mountains and sea. Luxuriate
in the Jacuzzi and forget that Los Angeles ever existed.
7 p.m.
After a nap and long, hot shower, amble down to the hotel’s
own Coast Restaurant & Bar. Savvy Angelenos will recognize
this echo of Santa Monica’s famed Shutters on the Beach
eatery and appreciate this transplanted taste of home. Have
a glass of the local Brander chardonnay and start with plump,
briny oysters, followed by perfectly grilled fish with fresh
veggies. You would be doing yourselves a major disservice
to not partake in the butterscotch pudding or chocolate lava
cake for dessert. Really, you’ve earned it. Walk off
dinner by strolling through the lovely, Spanish-style downtown
area, perhaps catching a movie or concert at the redoubtable
Arlington Theatre (805/963-4408; www.thearlingtontheatre.com).
Saturday, 8 a.m.
Get up early, slide into your jeans, and grab a quirky breakfast
at the Cajun Kitchen right across from the Canary on Chapala
Street (we love the Jim’s Special scramble). Meet
your chosen wine tour operator in front of the Canary about
9-ish for a day of wine tasting. We strongly suggest working
in the Lucas & Lewellen tasting room (888/777-6663;
www.llwine.com, see sidebar on winemaker Megan McGrath),
featured in the movie Sideways, and Sunstone Vineyards & Winery
(800/313-9463; www.sunstonewinery.com), charming and French-inspired,
into your itinerary. Make sure you eat a good, solid lunch—all
those sunny local wines can go to your head! If dining
out in Los Olivos is an option, may we suggest either the
gourmet wine-pairing Los Olivos Cafe (888/WINES4U; www.losolivoscafe.com),
the old-time charmer Mattei’s Tavern (805/688-4820;
www.matteistavern.com), or the adorable Patrick’s
Side Street Cafe (805/686-4004; www.patrickssidestreetcafe.com).
Enjoy your excursion to the Santa Ynez valley for some
stupendous wines and stunning scenery.
8 p.m.
After a nap or a quick swim in the hotel pool, walk to Mitchell
Sjerven’s newly opened downtown restaurant Seagrass
(805/963-1012; www.seagrassrestaurant.com). Enjoying great
local renown for his excellent wine and food pairings,
Sjerven’s
new venture is seafood-themed and cozy. For a truly memorable
evening go with the waiter’s suggested pairings and
one of the nightly fish specials—the après
dinner cheese plate is also superb. Stroll back to the
Canary, but en route, enjoy the spectacle of Santa Barbara’s
raucous weekend nightlife—lots of cute college boys
to ogle.
Sunday, 10 a.m.
Pick up a fresh, buttery croissant and frothy Cappuccino
at Andersen’s Danish Restaurant & Bakery (805/962-5085;
www.andersenssantabarbara.com) and take some time to window
shop on State Street. Though you can buy most of what’s
on offer at home, you won’t find so many shops in
one place in L.A. (and in such a lovely setting). Hit up
the lovely Sunken Gardens at the Courthouse (1100 Anacapa
St.) for the perfect vacation photo op. Pack up and say
a fond adieu to the Canary.
1 p.m.
The Wine Cask (800/436-9463; www.winecask.com) is the perfect
sendoff and perhaps the quintessential example of Santa
Barbara Wine Country cuisine. Never heavy but always flavorful
and artfully served, the Wine Cask’s offerings are
nonpareil. Hit the road right after lunch to miss that
tiresome Sunday traffic back to L.A., and don’t let
the drive be a buzzkill—the expansive ocean views
on the way to Ventura are a balm to your soul.
For more info and trip planning, see www.santabarbara.com.
Itinerary #2: Outdoor adventures, seaside dining, and scintillating
style in La Jolla
Friday, 11-ish
Throw together some workout clothes and beach gear, your
best L.A. casual wear, and a few evening duds, and hit
the road. Trust us, you’ll want to maximize your
time in La Jolla.
1 p.m.
Arrive in La Jolla, and stop in for an amazing buffet lunch
at Azul La Jolla (858/454-9616; www.brigantine.com) on
Prospect Street, just a mosey away from your hotel. Let
yourself indulge in the gourmet array of tapas, breads
and spreads (the chipotle cheese dip is phenomenal), fresh
salads, and hot dishes, while taking in the best ocean
view in town. After lunch, browse the cute boutiques along
Prospect, and take a style detour to the famed Girard Avenue.
Home to an impressive variety of high-style home design
shops, such as Seaside Home (7509 Girard Ave.), you’re
sure to pick up a trinket or two here—or perhaps
some fresh design ideas.
3 p.m.
Check in to the adorably historic yet comfortably modern
Grand Colonial Hotel (858/454-2181; www.thegrandcolonial.com).
Request the newer Garden Terrace or Little Hotel by the
Sea flats—they are ultramodern and brightly luxurious.
Enjoy your ocean view, wash the city grime away, and spend
some time in your lovely suite with complementary, delicious
snacks (there are even Dove bars in the freezer). Perhaps
grab a leisurely cocktail in the bar of the hotel’s
well-known NINE-TEN restaurant, or walk 30 seconds down
to the glittering Pacific below.
7 p.m.
Follow Prospect just a little ways up to George’s at
the Cove California Modern restaurant (858/454-4244; www.georgesatthecove.com).
With its smokey-hued, masculine modern design, sophisticated
fare (the fish preparations really stand out here), inventive
drinks, and comprehensive wine list, you’ll soon be
forgetting about L.A. restaurants altogether. Don’t
forget dessert! Wander back to your room, perhaps strolling
along the shoreline, and get rested for an active weekend.
Saturday, 8 a.m.
Order one of the fluffy, build-it-yourself omelets from the
hotel’s room service menu (be sure to hang your selection
on your doorknob the night before). Sip your coffee and
contentedly gaze out at the quiet morning.
9:30 a.m.
Get ready for your chance to work off some of that delicious
dinner via the La Jolla Plunge Bike Tour via Hike, Bike & Kayak
San Diego (858/551-9510; www.hikebikekayak.com). You’ll
start from the top of Mt. Soledad and descend 3.5 miles.
You can also add on the Coastal Bike Tour for more of a
challenge, and take in more of that lapis splendor that
is the Pacific.
Noon-ish
Return to the Grande Colonial to shower and change, and wend
your way by car to lunch at A.R. Valentien in the Lodge
at Torrey Pines (858/453-4420; www.lodgetorreypines.com).
Enjoy the sights, especially the area’s signature
Torrey pines (which Tori Amos christened herself after).
A.R. Valentien has fantastic food and a knowledgeable staff,
and the atmosphere makes us feel more pedigreed than we
are! Soak it up. After lunch, explore the wild and lovely
Torrey Pines State Reserve (858/755-2063; www.torreypine.org)
on foot. There are some fine walking trails and, of course,
all that unforgettable natural beauty.
4 p.m.
After all that exercise and fresh air, what you need to truly
unwind from those city snarls is a service at La Jolla
Spa MD (858/459-6868;
www.spa-md.com). We highly endorse
a Swedish massage by the talented Sonia Fredrick, or perhaps
a little laser treatment? (This is a medical spa after
all.) Pamper yourself—you work hard!
8 p.m.
No stay in La Jolla is complete without an evening at The
Marine Room (858/459-7222; www.marineroom.com). The main
dining room is at eye level with the ocean, and at high
tide the waves gently lap at the windows. As you might
expect, given its proximity to the sea, the Marine Room
features the freshest seafood prepared with traditional
French panache—the lobster bisque is the best we’ve
had anywhere. You’ll want to consult with the sommelier
on wine pairings, and the level of service here is just
impeccable. (L.A. has a thing or two to learn from La Jolla
on that score.)
Sunday, 10 a.m.
Sleep in—you’ve earned it! Have a parting brunch
at NINE-TEN and after you’ve packed up and checked
out from the Grande Colonial (with many promises to return),
pick up some unique gifts at the local boutiques. Though
close to L.A., you’ll find that La Jolla has its own
distinct style, and you’ll unearth items not to be
found in our city. We strongly advise heading back north
before noon to beat the traffic, as not to undo all that
hard-earned relaxation!
For more info and trip planning see
www.lajolla bythesea.com and www.sandiego.org.
Fresh Vintage
Everything we ever wanted to know about wine we learned
from Lucas & Lewellen’s rising star, winemaker
Megan McGrath
Winemakers are a curious lot. Many of those in the business
today are legacies, descended from wine-making and grape-growing
families (such as Louis Lucas, co-owner and operator of Lucas & Lewellen).
But increasingly, winemakers are a more diverse lot, and
though few are, like Megan McGrath, female, they come from
all walks of life to embrace this earthy and artistic profession.
McGrath, a soil scientist and native Californian, fell into
winemaking at Flowers Vineyard & Winery in Sonoma. It
became both her profession and her passion: “You get
immersed,” she muses. “You become it, think like
it, empathize with it.” McGrath monitors her batches
with scientific precision and cutting-edge equipment, but
notes that winemaking is also, truly, an art form ripe for
New-World expressiveness. McGrath says that in Europe, tradition
dictates how they make their wines, “but here, we can
spread our wings.”
Lucas & Lewellen’s wines are noticeably smooth
on the palate and low on those mouth-drying, astringent tannins,
and McGrath and Lucas attribute this enviable quality to
the weather in the Santa Ynez Valley. “The grape ripens
perfectly in the warm weather, but it’s cool overnight
with the ocean breezes that come in,” she says. Often,
at other vineyards, grapes are picked before they’re
ripe, which results in higher acidity. They don’t use
chemical pesticides, but instead utilize a compound made
of mushrooms, and the grapes are very well-tended. This meticulousness
is clearly reflected in the wines, especially the excellent
Hilltop Pinot Noir, for which they are renowned. (They also
produce the bargain-label Queen of Hearts as well as the
European-inspired Mandolina wines, both very drinkable.)
In order to make your wine tasting experience a little easier,
we asked McGrath to do a little free-associating on the characteristics
of the various varietals—feel free to use this as your “cheat
sheet.”
Syrah: White pepper jamminess
Pinot Noir: Bright red fruit
Malbec: Herbs, pomegranate, blackberry
Merlot: Spicy, velvety, ancient
Cabernet Sauvignon: Cassis, blackberry, chocolate
Viognier: Crisp, peach, apricot
Sauvignon Blanc: Mineral, citrus, perfume
Chardonnay: Round, lemony-citrus, resin
Pinot Grigio: Zippy, lily-flower, jasmine-tea
Zinfandel: Juicy, old-vine, dark-red —K.J.
For more
information visit www.llwine.com.
Touring With the Pros
Where to turn for expert guided tours of the Santa Barbara
and Santa Ynez vineyards and wineries
When it comes to wine tasting tours, go with the pros. It’s
a safer (especially as the Santa Ynez wine region is about
half an hour away via windy mountain or coastal roads), more
scenic, and ultra-informative way to check out the area’s
excellent wine offerings. We suggest signing up with one
of the tour companies below and making an entire day of it—you
won’t regret it and you’ll likely return laden
with wine gifts for many birthdays and holidays to come.
Cloud Climbers Jeep & Wine Tours
(805/646-3200; www.ccjeeps.com)
Features customized Jeep tours, tastings at four wineries
(from a choice of 17), small groups, gourmet picnic lunch,
local guide, hotel pick-up and return, and souvenir wine
glass.
Santa Ynez Horse Farm and Winery Tours
(805/688-5984; www.wineandhorse tours.com)
An unusual and interesting tour ideal for animal lovers and
wine enthusiasts alike. Operates Fri.-Sun. and weekdays by
appointment, includes gourmet picnic lunch, refreshments,
and tasting fees.
Wine Edventures
(805/965-9463; www.welovewines.com)
Picks up from both Santa Barbara and Solvang hotels in comfy
mini-buses, and features four tastings, discounts at wineries,
souvenir glass, and a great deal of wine education.
American International Transportation Services
(888/334-5466; www.aitslimo.com)
Offering customized wine tours tailored to individual tastes
and interests, with luxury vehicles available.
Captain Jack’s Tours
(805/564-1819; www.captainjackstours.com)
Captain Jack’s offers a Santa Barbara-only wine tour
cruising by Carr Vineyards, Whitcraft Winery, Cellar 205,
and Santa Barbara Winery, with lunch at Bay Cafe & Fish
Market. They also do a cool beer-tasting tour of Island Brewing
Company, The Brew House, Downtown Brewing Company, and Hollister
Brewing Company. —K.J.
|