EPICUREAN’S PARADISE

Cuisine Fit For an Angel: All’ Angelo

BY KORINA JOCHIM

Growing up with an Italian-American mother, I couldn’t help but learn to appreciate food. What many don’t know about Italian cuisine is how diverse it is, how fundamental fresh ingredients are to its composition. Much of the meals I grew up eating, cooking, and savoring were thrown together from the garden or what was in season at the market that day. A great Italian chef culls his flavors from what is around him, and though there is method to his meanderings, there is always room for improvisation. Like any Italian-American, some of the best meals I’ve had have been at home, or created with my own two hands. I eschew most Italian restaurants because, most of the time, I feel like I could do better in my own kitchen. Not so with All’ Angelo.

Tucked away on a busy strip of Melrose, All’ Angelo is a welcome addition to the neighborhood. Upon entering the restaurant, we were greeted warmly by Stefano Ongaro, owner, wine director, and native of Venice (as in Italy). The restaurant’s décor was very European—soft light from Murano glass sconces, low-key music, subdued color palette with splashes of vibrancy. The service was also impeccable, with the kind of subtlety more restaurants in L.A. should strive for—the focus here is the food. An amazing meal should render one speechless, and aside from some sighs of delight that’s what Chef Mirko Paderno’s tasting menu did to me. (This is a chef to watch out for, expect great things from him.) Along with Stefano’s fantastic wine pairings from California and Italy, our meal was an experience from the soft, fragrant foccacia all the way through to tangy Panna Cotta Fiori di Latte for dessert.

Asking for a tasting menu—there is a prix fixe menu available that changes daily—we began with the Tortino di Cavolfiore con Salsa al Mascarpone, a timbale of cauliflower with a velvety mascarpone sauce—reminiscent of whipped potatoes. It was so incredible we mopped all evidence of the mascarpone with a torn off-piece of focaccia. From there we tucked into a nicely grilled South African jumbo prawn, which nearly resembles a lobster and was sweet and succulent. Next up was a fantastic radicchio lasagne, surprisingly light and sitting atop a pool of béchamel sauce. Though we had enjoyed many tastes up until this point, due to the appropriate pacing of the courses and their modest size, we weren’t too full so were able to enjoy the main courses of a splendid Risotto Carnaroli ai Crostacei e Piselli Freschi (risotto with langoustines and lobster, perfectly prepared) and an excellent Filetto di Branzino all’ Acqua Pazza (grilled seabass with bitter greens). As we lingered over our glasses of prosecco, we tried to wonder how on earth we could replicate such a meal at home, and decided it was impossible. Next time we plan to sample their Cichetti Menu—sort of the Milanese version of tapas.

Vital Info

All’ Angelo

7166 Melrose Ave.
323/933-9540
www.allangelo.com
Cuisine Northern Italian and Neopolitan
The Scene The Civilized and Celebratory
Must Try Cauliflower Mascarpone
Cost $$

HOT PLATES

Taste Brunch is a whole new game in Los Angeles these days. Even better, it’s no longer an expensive endeavor if you are a bit of a gourmand. Taste on Melrose, a casual elegant restaurant serving up a buzz-worthy eclectic lunch and dinner, has a brunch that will knock your socks off yet leave you with enough money to pay rent. If you are an Eggs Benedict fiend, do not miss the Crab Cake Benedict. Equally divine is the Cremini Mushroom & Spinach Lasagne. Tucked into what is literally a house, the atmosphere is stylishly laid back in that iconic California way. 8454 MELROSE AVE. L-D DAILY BRUNCH SAT & SUN 323/852-6888 CALIFORNIA CUISINE $$

Comme Ca: The buzz around Comme Ca ranges from the Prohibition-era cocktail menu straight out of the infamous Milk and Honey modern speakeasy in NYC to the little slice of Paris found on the menu. It’s a busy brasserie that is only just settling in from the usual new restaurant kinks. It’s loud and trendy. For Americans used to space while dining, the seating area is a bit cramped but this is not a romantic little café. It’s a celebration of food, drink, and life. A Rumble cocktail along with the Mushroom Risotto is a marvelous way to get into the spirit of things. Entrée highlights include Goat Cheese Ravioli and Steak Frites. 8479 Melrose Avenue. L-D Daily (323) 782-1178 French $$$

Tangier If you’ve long fantasized about an exotic, romantic spot where Jazz and other music enchants the night amidst the star-studded shadows, look no further than Tangier. Every inch of the venue is simply gorgeous. The menu has a few inventive moments such as a Spanish Shrimp Cocktail and Wild Mushroom Pasta (which is a mushroom lusting soul’s prayer answered). The Miso Glazed Black Cod is a favorite among regulars (and for good reason). If dinner sounds too heavy and you’d like something more intimate or casual, check out the lounge. A variety of musical acts ranging from traditional jazz to rock grace the stage where you can also order small plates. 2138 HILLHURST AVE. L-D DAILY 323/660-1033 CALIFORNIA CUISINE $$$

The Bistro at the Chamberlain West Hollywood One of L.A.’s best-kept dining secrets, The Bistro, serves up the city’s most inspired tasting menu. Tucked into a sweet little corner of the hotel, The Bistro is the culinary playground for Chef de Cuisine Peter Gobin, whose French technique combined with a passion for local ingredients results in some killer cuisine. If you get the tasting menu (wine pairings are incredible, esp. the Gewurztraminer) be prepared to indulge in some rich and deftly prepared meats and seafood, such as Scallops with Orange Sauce, duck alongside a burnished strip of pork belly, and a divine New York strip. The Chocolate Orange Pot de Crème is inspirational, so save room for dessert. CHAMBERLAIN WEST HOLLYWOOD, 100 WESTMOUNT DR. L-D. 310/657-7400. WWW.CHAMBERLAINWESTHOLLYWOOD.COM. NEW AMERICAN CUISINE. $$$

Coast at Shutters on the Beach: In Southern California, many of us practically grow up on the beach, and in our youth, it seemed one could never get decent food and a good view at the same time. It’s nice to see establishments like Coast at Shutters on the Beach in Santa Monica bucking that trend, by offering a solid menu for breakfast, lunch, dinner, and even brunch on the weekends. Loaded with American favorites like mac and cheese, but given variety and flair by items like Grilled Swordfish with Garlic Broccoini, and the best guacamole and warm tortilla chips this side of the Rio Grande. Coast also serves up a mean plate of plump, briny oysters, and has a dungeness crabcake appetizer that is the best I’ve had in L.A. 1 PICO BLVD. SANTA MONICA. B-L-D DAILY 310/587-1707 AMERICAN SEAFOOD $

Killer Shrimp: Either you love it or you hate it, but those fanatic fans of Killer Shrimp have been known to travel for miles just to get a bowl of the incredible Cajun inspired spicy broth covering Louisiana shrimp. (Some have even spent years trying to figure out the secret recipe to the base). Shrimp is it. Just as the name proudly pronounces, that’s what they serve. Sure, there is a Caesar salad on the menu but it’s all about the shrimp, served with or without rice, and the dipping bread. Be warned, however, this shrimp is not for the faint of heart. It’s wickedly spicy. And after you are finished, don’t miss the Pecan Pie with homemade whipped cream. It’s equally worthy of a long trek across Los Angeles. 4000 COLFAX AVENUE. L-D DAILY (818) 508-1570 CAJUN $$

WHERE TO EAT

Nirvana

If the Kama Sutra could be translated into a dining experience, it would look, taste, and feel something like Nirvana. Discreetly tucked into a quiet strip of Wilshire Boulevard, Nirvana delivers the goods: sumptuous dishes from all over India prepared by renowned Chef Ramanuj Sahai; sensuous, canopied tabled “beds” and libidinous murals; koi swimming languorously below a Siddartha-head fountain. Indulge in the Crab Tikki Malabar as “foreplay” for the award-winning Chicken Tikka Masala, or the mind-blowing Tandoori Lobster. Bask in the afterglow with some mango ice cream. If you want to get your groove on, you only need to wait until 9 or 10 p.m., when one portion of the restaurant transforms into a sultry nightclub. 8689 WILSHIRE BLVD BEVERLY HILLS 310/657-5040 INDIAN $$$ —VICTORIA LANE