|
The beauty industry isn't always a pretty business, but
Pierce Mattie is doing his part to make life easier for anyone
who wants to look good.
BY CHRISTOPHER LISOTTA
The first male estheti-cian in Florida, Pierce Mattie had
been a go-to style consultant for years before forming a
PR firm in 2001 that represents beauty and style companies,
including Shiseido Professional and Ojon Hair Care. The author
of Groomed For Success, a groundbreaking text book on marketing
cosmetics to men, Mattie is considered a prognosticator for
upcoming trends within the beauty and style industries.
FRONTIERS: Without being a terrible shill for your clients,
what are the big trends for 2008?
PIERCE MATTIE: The whole green trend is still going really
strong, but it has become an epidemic where it is getting
into green hazing, where things that really aren't green
are claiming they are green. You're going to see a lot more
university studies, clinical research, and people not necessarily
bashing green, but really trying to stand out those getting
on the green bandwagon. Especially for Los Angeles, reusable
energy and renewable resources, that has crossed over into
fashion. We are looking at different types of fabrics and
material that are not only organic, but they are things that
have been refurbished or reused over certain periods of time,
and then they have been turned into textiles that are to
be worn. Before it was like a thing in the ‘80s where
you would ask what's in the skin care product. Now people
are asking where are these fabrics coming from, how are they
made, and how are they going to better my body or lifestyle?
Is the “I don't what my $300 blouse made by a Chinese
child” dynamic still around?
It is still a strong dynamic, unfortunately because of the
toy situation that happened this Christmas. There are a lot
of very large apparel companies that have taken the heat.
Consumers are getting a little bit more sophisticated with
looking at other options, but there really aren't that many
other options where clothes are assembled unless you're looking
at couture or if the clothes are hand made, or an independent
clothing manufacturer that caters to a specific clientele.
But the price points go up by 500 percent to something you
could get at a department store or a large fashion chain.
Is Project Runway changing the industry or is it just a fun
show?
It kind of brought back that ‘60s and ‘70s nostalgia
of having that Halston-type designer, where in the ‘90s,
and the past eight years of the 2000s, we haven't really
had that. We've had large apparel production companies producing
clothes and we didn't really care who designed it. We're
going back to that concept of who made and designed my clothes
for me.
How is the writers strike impacting the world of fashion?
If we are no longer going to get that fashion and beauty
coverage from television, from the award shows and red carpet,
then we are going to look at what the models are doing on
the runway. There is not a runway strike, and there is not
a fashion strike. We're going back to real models and fashion
designers, and going away from celebrities.
Are men becoming more fashion forward? Are we at the stage
where straight men are talking about cleanser?
I find that a lot of gay men like to dress like straight
guys, and a lot of straight men like to dress like gay guys.
And that is a very general, almost ignorant statement to
make, but traditionally it has always been that gay men wanted
to wear club shirts and wear tight outfits and really come
and look the part. If you go to gay retailers and ask what
their number one brand is, they say G-Star, and they are
not very tight. They are baggy. The shirts don't have darts
in the back. A lot of straight men are becoming more savvy
with facial cleaners. It is okay for men to cleanse, tone,
and moisturize. Men are now using bronzer, and using self
tanner, especially with the skin cancer epidemic.
Am I a bad gay if I wear sweat pants around the house?
As long as they are American Apparel or Juicy that's fine—I'm
just kidding. The sweatpants thing is very popular, sweatpants
now retail for $175-350 per suit. That includes pull-up drawstring
pants and a zipper front top. You have everything from Ben
Sherman to Juicy coming out with really expensive track suits.
As a gay man, do people expect you should know more than
a straight man about fashion and beauty?
I think we have moved beyond the level of taste. I think
the one thing everyone looks to is quality. How they are
crafted, designed, inspired, and how are they original? With
the Internet everything is copied in a matter of minutes.
Before, the gays were able to kind of come up with an original
idea and they were copied by their peers, but there is no
room for that any more.
|