EPICUREAN’S PARADISE

There’s Italian, and Then There’s Amici: Amici

BY MICHAEL EPSTEIN & SCOTT SCHWIMER, AKA “THE FABULOUS DINING DUO”

Amici has become one of our favorite restaurants. The food certainly stands above most of the Italian restaurants in Los Angeles and host/owner, the incomparable Tancredi De Luca, really sets the tone (and lets face it, a host can make all the difference at any restaurant…how many times has a nasty host or bitchy owner set the tenor for an unpleasant dining experience?). The strikingly handsome Tancredi is one of the most welcoming restaurateurs in our fair city. He cut his teeth at Toscana in Brentwood years ago, and took that knowledge and embellished upon it with the creation of his dining establishments.

We personally prefer the old brick Brentwood location, as the tables are not as crowded as the Beverly Hills locale. We always start our repast with any one of three or four soup choices. In the summer we prefer the superb chilled tomato soup, which is thick and slightly creamy, but you can enjoy this fresh tomato potage with basil tips ($6.95), all year ’round.

At Amici in Brentwood its all about white truffles; we’ve tried truffles at many restaurants but Amici’s truffles from Umbria, shipped directly from Alba, Italy are the most strong and flavorful ones we’ve encountered, and it’s probably due to the fact that our host is not afraid to spend the $3,400 per pound for the best selection (truffles only last for about a week, so this is a big gamble for a restaurateur). Our favorite truffle dish is fettuccini topped with approximately seven ounces of truffles ($110), a bit spendy, but so worth of every mouthwatering morsel.

Both locations offer the best turkey lasagne we’ve had the opportunity to savor (at a very reasonable $14.95). It is the perfect combination of turkey ragout and delicately spiced tomato sauce. Scott, who does not eat red meat, particularly loves this dish and rates it a 10. If you’re in the mood for something tangy, we love their rigatoni with chicken sausage ($14.50), which has a conglomeration of spices and is swept to the table at exactly the right temperature. As restaurants these days look to improve their bottom line by substituting farm-raised salmon for the wild variety, Amici still serves wild salmon that is superb, served over a bed of lentils, and priced very well at $21.95.

Although it’s not de rigeur, it is commonplace for Tancredi to send over some freshly made chocolate chip cookies and biscottis with warm chocolate sauce at no extra charge; make certain to try the Hazelnut Semi Fredo, an exceedingly rich blend of hazelnut, butter and cream, a true Italian dessert ($8.95), which always makes the Duo dance the Tarantella.

A dear friend of ours is a co-owner of one of the better Italian restaurants in town, and yet nearly every time we’re at Amici, we see her enjoying another wonderful meal there too. Free food at her place, or fabulous food at Amici— you do the math.

VITAL INFO

Amici Brentwood

2538 San Vicente Blvd., Santa Monica
310/260-4900
www.tamici.com

Amici Trattoria

469 N. Doheny Drive, Beverly Hills
310/858-0271

Cuisine: Italian
The Scene: Well-seasoned foodies and elegant locals
Must Try: Truffle Fettucine
Cost $$$

HOT PLATES

The Bistro at the Chamberlain West Hollywood One of L.A.’s best-kept dining secrets, The Bistro, serves up the city’s most inspired tasting menu. Tucked into a sweet little corner of the hotel, The Bistro is the culinary playground for Chef de Cuisine Peter Gobin, whose French technique combined with a passion for local ingredients results in some killer cuisine. If you get the tasting menu (wine pairings are incredible, esp. the Gewurztraminer) be prepared to indulge in some rich and deftly prepared meats and seafood, such as scallops with orange sauce, duck alongside a burnished strip of pork belly, and a divine New York strip. The chocolate orange pot de crème is inspirational, so save room for dessert. CHAMBERLAIN WEST HOLLYWOOD, 100 WESTMOUNT DR. L-D. 310/657-7400. WWW.CHAMBERLAINWESTHOLLYWOOD.COM. NEW AMERICAN CUISINE. $$$

Coast at Shutters on the Beach: In Southern California, many of us practically grow up on the beach, and in our youth, it seemed one could never get decent food and a good view at the same time. It’s nice to see establishments like Coast at Shutters on the Beach in Santa Monica bucking that trend, by offering a solid menu for breakfast, lunch, dinner, and even brunch on the weekends. Loaded with American favorites like mac and cheese, but given variety and flair by items like grilled swordfish with garlic broccoini, and the best guacamole and warm tortilla chips this side of the Rio Grande. Coast also serves up a mean plate of plump, briny oysters, and has a dungeness crabcake appetizer that is the best I’ve had in L.A. 1 PICO BLVD. SANTA MONICA. B-L-D DAILY 310/587-1707 AMERICAN SEAFOOD $

Killer Shrimp: Either you love it or you hate it, but those fanatic fans of Killer Shrimp have been known to travel for miles just to get a bowl of the incredible Cajun inspired spicy broth covering Louisiana shrimp. (Some have even spent years trying to figure out the secret recipe to the base.) Shrimp is it. Just as the name proudly pronounces, that’s what they serve. Sure, there is a Caesar salad on the menu but it’s all about the shrimp, served with or without rice, and the dipping bread. Be warned, however, this shrimp is not for the faint of heart. It’s wickedly spicy. And after you are finished, don’t miss the pecan pie with the homemade whipped cream. It’s equally worthy of a long trek across Los Angeles. 4000 COLFAX AVENUE. L-D DAILY (818) 508-1570 CAJUN $$

Fred 62: If a diner could go on a world tour to experience other cultures, and maybe soak up a little sophistication to accent a sense of kitschy whimsy— the result would be Fred 62. Not your momma’s 1950s greasy spoon by any stretch, Fred 62 takes all the relevant bits of a diner, including the slick décor, and goes contemporary with menu items straight out of your wildest food binges—think corn flake-crusted French toast and pop tart a la mode. For the less manic moments, the extensive menu includes curve balls such as a tour through Asia with various noodle dishes and a Thai spin on the Cobb salad. The crowd is one of the most mixed you’ll see in L.A. with everyone from clean cut corporate types to the distinctly subculture, artistic souls.1850 N Vermont Ave. B-L-D Daily 323/667-0062 Diner $

Honey: Nestled into the lobby of The Avalon sits an indulgent dining experience aptly named Honey. Chandelier-drenched and leather-clad, the intimate restaurant is Hollywood excess in every sense without the devastating price tag. Enjoy such delights as New Orleans-style crab cakes or Baba Ganoush to start. The entrée to absolutely not miss is the seared goat cheese stuffed chicken over grilled prosciutto wrapped asparagus in a marsala wine reduction. Later in the evening, the restaurant converts to a lounge atmosphere serving small plates and other favorites for the professional night owl to feast upon. 1733 N. Vine St D Nightly 323/462-3000 American $$

Bank Heist: Tucked inside an historic structure built in 1926 by the same architects responsible for the glorious Union Station is the latest trend in entertainment. By day, this brick building is The Bank, a darling 1920s-inspired café serving everything from tacos to curried chicken salad sandwiches. Serving an eclectic mix of food, though often traditional American diner fare dressed up with some style, the menu is still in flux as they experiment with what works and what doesn’t. At night the entire upstairs of the same building becomes The Heist, a glamorous lounge serving single plate appetizers along with varied themed evenings of entertainment. 5303 Lankershim Blvd. B-L-D Daily 818/760-1648 American $$

WHERE TO EAT

Tangier

If you’ve long fantasized about an exotic, romantic spot where Jazz and other music enchants the night amidst the star-studded shadows, look no further than Tangier. Every inch of the venue is simply gorgeous. The menu has a few inventive moments such as spanish shrimp cocktail and wild mushroom pasta (which is a mushroom lusting soul’s prayer answered). The miso glazed black cod is a favorite among regulars (and for good reason). If dinner sounds too heavy and you’d like something more intimate or casual, check out the lounge. A variety of musical acts ranging from traditional jazz to rock grace the stage where you can also order small plates. 2138 Hillhurst Ave. L-D Daily (323) 660-1033 California Cuisine $$$ —VICTORIA LANE