EPICUREAN’S PARADISE

Sushi on Cloud 9: Kumo

BY KORINA JOCHIM

I have this theory that sushi diners are more persnickety than any other set of foodie folks. We’re a hard to please bunch, and most of us stick to that one neighborhood place that “has the freshest ahi” or “the friendliest chefs” and “knows how I like it.” We’re picky and that also makes us a little boring — thus, not very many restaurants are willing or able to splash out and take risks with our precious tuna. It’s rare to bump up against an original in a town studded with sushi bars, but quite easy to play it safe, simple, and traditional.

Not so with Kumo. Clearly not afraid to stand out, Michael Ovitz’s new restaurant — on a chic strip of Melrose just west of Fairfax — is haute sushi, in a pristine, all-white setting contrasting with stunning art and touches of deep blue. One almost gets the sense that this is a museum whose artful offerings are food (the master artists being Executive Chef Hiro Fujita and Executive Sushi Chef Haya Saito) and drink. They do both exceedingly well, and with great flair. But first, you really have to soak in the elegance of the place. Sip one of the their nonpareil cocktails (we love the Ginger-Root Beer and Lemon No Shizuku) and let your eyes be transfixed by the changing seasons in the video anime installation above the sushi bar, “City Glow.” Take in the silent waterfall against the far wall; run a fingertip along the opaque white resin of the bar. Imagine that you have been transported into a high-style version of heaven. Inhale the rich perfume emanating from the kitchen, with the faint scent of flowers all around.

Now that your appetite has been sufficiently whetted, sink into one of the low, plush booths that maintain the open floor plan, and allow you to indulge your little voyeurism habit. Start out with a little sashimi—perhaps the velvety seared salmon sashimi, or the piquant hamachi with jalapeño. Ease into a second course of sushi—we adored the basked crab handroll, crunchy and savory, and sweet all at once, as well as the Kumo burrito, the spicy poppers (mmm, more jalapeño!) and saucy lobster and crab dynamite. Ask for a sake pairing with each course: We’re personally fond of Otokoyama, Kanchiku, Kubota, and Kikusui, but we’re happy to defer to the sommelier’s expertise and try new varieties. Sample the rich marinated black cod with red wine miso sauce, and then the kobegyu (grilled Kobe beef) with the best teriyaki sauce in town (not too cloying, with balanced flavors).

If you still have room after sharing these luscious bites with a table full of friends, invest in dessert. We luxuriated in the custard pudding Madeleine, served alongside a berry soup and chocolate accoutrements.

vital info

Kumo
8360 Melrose Ave.
323-651/KUMO
www.kumo-la.com
Cuisine Haute sushi, Japanese fusion
The Scene Sexy and successful ... or aspiring
Must Try Spicy Popper and Kumo Burrito
Cost $$$

HOT PLATES

Coast at Shutters on the Beach: In Southern California, many of us practically grow up on the beach, and in our youth, it seemed one could never get decent food and a good view at the same time. It’s nice to see establishments like Coast at Shutters on the Beach in Santa Monica bucking that trend, by offering a solid menu for breakfast, lunch, dinner, and even brunch on the weekends, loaded with American favorites like mac and cheese, but given variety and flair by items like grilled swordfish with garlic broccoini, and the best guacamole and warm tortilla chips this side of the Rio Grande. Coast also serves up a mean plate of plump, briny oysters, and has a dungeness crabcake appetizer that is the best I’ve had in L.A. 1 PICO BLVD. SANTA MONICA. B-L-D DAILY 310/587-1707 AMERICAN SEAFOOD $

Killer Shrimp: Either you love it or you hate it but those fanatic fans of Killer Shrimp have been known to travel for miles just to get a bowl of the incredible Cajun inspired spicy broth covering Louisiana shrimp. (Some have even spent years trying to figure out the secret recipe to the base.) Shrimp is it. Just as the name proudly pronounces, that’s what they serve. Sure, there is a Caesar salad on the menu but it’s all about the shrimp, served with or without rice, and the dipping bread. Be warned, however, this shrimp is not for the faint of heart. It’s wickedly spicy. And after you are finished, don’t miss the pecan pie with the homemade whipped cream. It’s equally worthy of a long trek across Los Angeles. 4000 COLFAX AVENUE. L-D DAILY (818) 508-1570 CAJUN $$

Fred 62: If a diner could go on a world tour to experience other cultures, and maybe soak up a little sophistication to accent a sense of kitschy whimsy— the result would be Fred 62. Not your momma’s 1950s greasy spoon by any stretch, Fred 62 takes all the relevant bits of a diner, including the slick décor, and goes contemporary with menu items straight out of your wildest food binges—think corn flake-crusted French toast and pop tart a la mode. For the less manic moments, the extensive menu includes curve balls such as a tour through Asia with various noodle dishes and a Thai spin on the Cobb salad. The crowd is one of the most mixed you’ll see in L.A. with everyone from clean cut corporate types to the distinctly subculture, artistic souls.1850 N Vermont Ave. B-L-D Daily 323/667-0062 Diner $

Honey: Nestled into the lobby of The Avalon sits an indulgent dining experience aptly named Honey. Chandelier-drenched and leather-clad, the intimate restaurant is Hollywood excess in every sense without the devastating price tag. Enjoy such delights as New Orleans-style crab cakes or Baba Ganoush to start. The entrée to absolutely not miss is the seared goat cheese stuffed chicken over grilled prosciutto wrapped Asparagus in a Marsala wine reduction. Later in the evening, the restaurant converts to a lounge atmosphere serving small plates and other favorites for the professional night owl to feast upon. 1733 N. Vine St D Nightly 323/462-3000 American $$

Bank Heist: Tucked inside an historic structure built in 1926 by the same architects responsible for the glorious Union Station is the latest trend in entertainment. By day, this brick building is The Bank, a darling 1920s-inspired café serving everything from tacos to curried chicken salad sandwiches. Serving an eclectic mix of food, though often traditional American diner fare dressed up with some style, the menu is still in flux as they experiment with what works and what doesn’t. At night the entire upstairs of the same building becomes The Heist, a glamorous lounge serving single plate appetizers along with varied themed evenings of entertainment. 5303 Lankershim Blvd. B-L-D Daily 818/760-1648 American $$

Craft: High-powered movers and shakers in and around Century City are abuzz about the NYC sensation Craft arriving here in Los Angeles. Craft features a seasonal American menu with lunch and dinner in a la cart form and a sexy lounge menu with nods to the cuisine of various cultures. Set in a sleek, East Coast inspired interior, and offering abundant outdoor seating overlooking a lush park, Craft is full of power brokers and those few hip souls on the cutting edge of glamour partaking of sublime Wagyu steaks for worshippers of the meat and exotic mushroom sides—Chanterelles, Trompette Royale, and Matsutake to name a few. 10100 Constellation Blvd. L-D Daily 310/279-4180 American $$$$

WHERE TO EAT

The Bistro at the Chamberlain West Hollywood

Everyone knows that the Chamberlain hotel is synonymous with plush mid-century modern good taste, but what is still one of L.A.’s best-kept dining secrets is that its restaurant, The Bistro, serves up one city’s most inspired tasting menu. Tucked into a sweet little corner of the hotel, The Bistro is the culinary playground for Chef de Cuisine Peter Gobin, whose French technique combined with a passion for local ingredients results in some killer cuisine. If you get the tasting menu (wine pairings are incredible, esp. the Gewurztraminer) be prepared to indulge in some rich and deftly prepared meats and seafood, such as scallops with orange sauce, duck alongside a burnished strip of pork belly, and a divine New York strip. The chocolate orange pot de crème is inspirational, so save room for dessert. CHAMBERLAIN WEST HOLLYWOOD, 100 WESTMOUNT DR. L-D. 310/657-7400. WWW.CHAMBERLAINWESTHOLLYWOOD.COM. NEW AMERICAN CUISINE. $$$ —VICTORIA LANE