EPICUREAN’S PARADISE

Reflecting Italian Grace and Style: West

BY GHALIB SHIRAZ DHALLA

You can call it classic Los Angeles noir, Lake Cuomo elegance, or quintessential California style. The reason West, located in the penthouse of the newly redesigned tower of Hotel Angeleno at the confluence of the 405 and Sunset Boulevard is so mutable, is because it combines the best of these. Designed in conjunction with Kitchen Partners and Design Director and co-owner Joanna Perlman, West was designed in her words “to reflect the post-war era of Italian grace and style.”

Look through the floor to ceiling windows offering a panoramic crescent view of the city—the snake of freeway cars, Brentwood mansions, the downtown skyline, and even a sliver of the Pacific. On Fridays live music scores the air and on Saturdays, get ready for hip DJs to serenade chic urbanites with soulful house.

Inside, rich cherrywood ceilings, Carrera marble tables, plush banquets, dramatic chandeliers, and beautiful people serve as a reminder not only of the kind of elegance possible in a sprawling city filled with transient appeals, but also of the privilege of dinning, quite literally, at the top.

An extensive selection of Italian and Californian wines are offered in quartinos or mini decanters, and an array of signature martinis like the Lychee martini are sure to entice. The starter menu is loaded with Italian small plates, salads, and antipasti. From this staggering selection, the mini eggplant parmesan is an explosion of taste and textures. The popular mini-sliders (available with aged cheddar, caramelized onion, mushroom gorgonzola gratin) can also be ordered at the swank bar overlooking the vistas. These palm-sized burgers with the 35-day dry aged ground filet have the consistency and intense flavor that will make you question the integrity of other burgers you’ve had. The heirloom tomato salad is summer on a plate. Thick medallions are topped with crumbled feta with a touch of black pepper to bring nuance and balance.

If you come to West to indulge the inner carnivore, be assured that prime aged steaks, chops, and roasts reign supreme here. Prime cuts of meat, seared to perfection, are served with a choice of roast garlic parmesan butter, Barolo reduction (the king of Italian reds with full flavors and aromas), or the classic béarnaise and accompanied by buttery roasted field mushrooms, baby potatoes, or lemon-garlic spinach. But you won’t be disappointed with the alternatives. A splendid sea bass with crispy skin and served with lobster ravioli, chive oil, and lobster foam is remarkable.

West offers something unique not only because it sits isolated from the bustle of other restaurants and hotels, but also because of its vertical stand in a city aggravated by its expanse. Angelenos recline, sprawl, and stay connected to the ground as if reeling from biblical Babel but West beckons the earthbound to defy gravity and go upward, to take in a city rarely seen from above.

Vital Info

West at Hotel Angeleno

170 N. Church Lane
310/476-6411
www.jdvhotels.com/angeleno/
Cuisine Italian/Steakhouse
The Scene Noir/hipsters
Must Try Eggplant Parmesan, prime aged steaks
Cost $$$

HOT PLATES

Fred 62: If a diner could go on a world tour to experience other cultures, and maybe soak up a little sophistication to accent a sense of kitschy whimsy, the result would be Fred 62. Not your momma’s 1950s greasy spoon by any stretch, Fred 62 takes all the relevant bits of a diner, including the slick décor, and goes contemporary with menu items straight out of your wildest food binges—think corn flake-crusted French toast and pop tart a la mode. For the less manic moments, the extensive menu includes curve balls such as a tour through Asia with various noodle dishes and a Thai spin on the Cobb salad. The crowd is one of the most mixed you’ll see in L.A. with everyone from clean cut corporate types to the distinctly subculture, artistic souls.1850 N Vermont Ave. B-L-D Daily 323/667-0062 Diner $

Honey: Nestled into the lobby of The Avalon sits an indulgent dining experience aptly named Honey. Chandelier-drenched and leather-clad, the intimate restaurant is Hollywood excess in every sense without the devastating price tag. Enjoy such delights as New Orleans-style crab cakes or Baba Ganoush to start. The entrée to absolutely not miss is the Seared Goat Cheese Stuffed Chicken over Grilled Prosciutto wrapped Asparagus in a Marsala wine reduction. Later in the evening, the restaurant converts to a lounge atmosphere serving small plates and other favorites for the professional night owl to feast upon. 1733 N. Vine St D Nightly 323/462-3000 American $$

Bank Heist: Tucked inside an historic structure built in 1926 by the same architects responsible for the glorious Union Station is the latest trend in entertainment. By day, this brick building is The Bank, a darling 1920s-inspired café serving everything from tacos to curried chicken salad sandwiches. Serving an eclectic mix of food, though often traditional American diner fare dressed up with some style, the menu is still in flux as they experiment with what works and what doesn’t. At night the entire upstairs of the same building becomes The Heist, a glamorous lounge serving single plate appetizers along with varied themed evenings of entertainment. 5303 Lankershim Blvd. B-L-D Daily 818/760-1648 American $$

Craft: High-powered movers and shakers in and around Century City are abuzz about the NYC sensation Craft arriving here in Los Angeles. Craft features a seasonal American menu with lunch and dinner in a la cart form and a sexy lounge menu with nods to the cuisine of various cultures. Set in a sleek, East Coast inspired interior and offering abundant outdoor seating overlooking a lush park, Craft is full of power brokers and those few hip souls on the cutting edge of glamour partaking of sublime Wagyu steaks for worshippers of the meat and exotic mushroom sides—Chanterelles, Trompette Royale and Matsutake to name a few. 10100 Constellation Blvd. L-D Daily 310/279-4180 American $$$$

Amaranta: The newly opened Amaranta has taken Mexican cuisine to sexy, elegant new heights. Set in a stylish venue sporting pinks instead of the expected garish primary colors or drab browns, the atmosphere is but a foreshadowing of the wonders to come. A seasonal menu with fresh ingredients offers traditional, familiar dishes with haute cuisine twists. And the presentation is nothing less than art. You won’t find plates slopped together with the usual entrée huddled between overflowing pools of rice and beans. Not to be missed are the over 400 kinds of tequila, which you can try out once a month at special tastings. 6600 Topanga Canyon Blvd. L-D Daily 818/610-3599 Mexican $$$

Abode Restaurant & Lounge: Hip, stylish, and rumored to be eco-friendly, Abode has caused a stir from the moment it opened its doors. The menu is full of surprises and exotic items from all over the world. For the jaded L.A. dining enthusiast, there is at least one thing listed at any given time you’ve never heard of in your life. Even the cocktails are exotic and unexpected, such as the Elderflower Green Tea Martini. In keeping with the increasing trend of lounges popping up all over the Southland, patrons can dine from a full menu or an offering of small plates. The food isn’t the only thing stirring up talk. The décor is the result of a team once under the wing of Frank Gehry. 1541 Ocean Ave. L-D Daily 310/394-3463 Contemporary American $$$

WHERE TO EAT

KILLER SHRIMP

Either you love it or you hate it but those fanatic fans of Killer Shrimp have been known to travel for miles just to get a bowl of the incredible Cajun inspired spicy broth covering Louisiana shrimp. (Some have even spent years trying to figure out the secret recipe to the base.) Shrimp is it. Just as the name proudly pronounces, that’s what they serve. Sure, there is a Caesar salad on the menu but it’s all about the shrimp, served with or without rice, and the dipping bread. Be warned, however, this shrimp is not for the faint of heart. It’s wickedly spicy. And after you are finished, don’t miss the pecan pie with the homemade whipped cream. It’s equally worthy of a long trek across Los Angeles. 4000 COLFAX AVENUE. L-D DAILY (818) 508-1570 CAJUN $$ —VICTORIA LANE