EPICUREAN’S PARADISE

Out With the Old, In With the New: Bastide

BY MICHAEL EPSTEIN & SCOTT SCHWIMER, AKA “THE FABULOUS DINING DUO”

While dining at the reincarnation of one of our favorite restaurants, we overcame our initial disappointment that Chef Ludo Lefebvre is not part of the scene he helped establish, as the new chef, Walter Manzke (formerly of Patina) and sommelier, Pieter Verheyde, are both extremely accomplished and it shows every step of the way.

From the moment you are greeted at the entrance of the restaurant, you know you are in for an extraordinary experience, proving that Bastide continues to reign as the finest restaurant in Los Angeles. The new Bastide offers more than just superior French dining. We encountered hints of flavors from Thailand and Japan and in experiencing our seven-course meal—a bargain at $100—there was little we did not savor. Be prepared for the unusual, masterfully accomplished by Chef Walter. Also be prepared for an evening out that will often times lapse into three to four hours; no pushy waiters standing at your table so they can fit in a second seating, and no ill-trained bus-boys grabbing plates. At Bastide, it’s an evening swept away by food, wine, and the company of good friends.

The Dining Duo started devouring the fabulous breads of four varieties that were lavishly offered to us. Then we tasted the Baja course, which included salsa water with a tortilla chip, which was very light and comparable to a shot of salsa, complete with all the flavors. A Tequila shot with a touch of sea salt naturally accompanied it.

The Tapas course was the only course we didn’t adore, probably due to Scott not being an octopus fan and Michael’s distaste for sardines. Does anyone really like sardines (or octopus for that matter)? That being said, its presentation was artful and led to our Japanese course, which included a kumamoto oyster with green apple jelly. Beyond delicious, Michael could have consumed 10 of these (and Scott wishes he had). You know what they say about oysters.

The carrot and coconut soup followed, creatively made with tapioca, crushed peanuts, and king prawns. We both could have had a huge bowl as it was quite possibly the most flavorful soup we’ve encountered and led perfectly into the fish course. Next we sampled the sautéed turbot with cabbage and a lobster truffle sauce and throughout each course a simple but complete explanation was provided, as it’s very easy to lose track.

Neither of us are terribly fond of suckling pig, but we have a new outlook since tasting the preparation by Chef Walter. This crispy roasted pig served over lentils with a frisee salad and sunny side-up organic egg was nothing short of incredible.

The coup de grace of our dining experience was the braised short rib splendidly prepared with chanterelle mushrooms and béarnaise sauce and then followed by roasted Sonoma duck with Italian black rice accompanied by spiced beet puree. There is always room for desserts and there were two, which followed a small but elegant cheese course. Vanilla pannacotta with grapefruit-rosemary sorbet and tangerine soup was chased by chocolate cake with a banana milk shake. The valets had our cars waiting for us at the curb, just to add the exclamation point on a superlative sentence.

HOT PLATES

Bank Heist: Tucked inside an historic structure built in 1926 by the same architects responsible for the glorious Union Station is the latest trend in entertainment. By day, this brick building is The Bank, a darling 1920s-inspired café serving everything from tacos to curried chicken salad sandwiches. Serving an eclectic mix of food, though often traditional American diner fare dressed up with some style, the menu is still in flux as they experiment with what works and what doesn’t. At night the entire upstairs of the same building becomes The Heist, a glamorous lounge serving single plate appetizers along with varied themed evenings of entertainment. 5303 Lankershim Blvd. B-L-D Daily 818/760-1648 American $$

Craft: High-powered movers and shakers in and around Century City are abuzz about the NYC sensation Craft arriving here in Los Angeles. Craft features a seasonal American menu with lunch and dinner in a la cart form and a sexy lounge menu with nods to the cuisine of various cultures. Set in a sleek, East Coast inspired interior and offering abundant outdoor seating overlooking a lush park, Craft is full of power brokers and those few hip souls on the cutting edge of glamour partaking of sublime Wagyu steaks for worshippers of the meat and exotic mushroom sides—Chanterelles, Trompette Royale and Matsutake to name a few. 10100 Constellation Blvd. L-D Daily 310/279-4180 American $$$$

Amaranta: The newly opened Amaranta has taken Mexican cuisine to sexy, elegant new heights. Set in a stylish venue sporting pinks instead of the expected garish primary colors or drab browns, the atmosphere is but a foreshadowing of the wonders to come. A seasonal menu with fresh ingredients offers traditional, familiar dishes with haute cuisine twists. And the presentation is nothing less than art. You won’t find plates slopped together with the usual entrée huddled between overflowing pools of rice and beans. Not to be missed are the over 400 kinds of tequila, which you can try out once a month at special tastings. 6600 Topanga Canyon Blvd. L-D Daily 818/610-3599 Mexican $$$

Abode Restaurant & Lounge: Hip, stylish, and rumored to be eco-friendly, Abode has caused a stir from the moment it opened its doors. The menu is full of surprises and exotic items from all over the world. For the jaded L.A. dining enthusiast, there is at least one thing listed at any given time you’ve never heard of in your life. Even the cocktails are exotic and unexpected, such as the Elderflower Green Tea Martini. In keeping with the increasing trend of lounges popping up all over the Southland, patrons can dine from a full menu or an offering of small plates. The food isn’t the only thing stirring up talk. The décor is the result of a team once under the wing of Frank Gehry. 1541 Ocean Ave. L-D Daily 310/394-3463 Contemporary American $$$

Citizen Smith: Tucked along a short row of infamous bars resides one of Hollywood’s most casual elegant secrets—Citizen Smith. Designed with great care paid to detail, the interior beckons memories of an age gone by juxtaposed with modern excess. Sporting a full menu and a late-night lounge menu, a little Hollywood glamour can be found by any sized pocket book. The Cajun Shrimp are a must-try, particularly late at night after an evening of carousing. Speaking of cocktails, the mixologists at this stylish little destination concoct some of the most creative adult refreshments to be found in Tinseltown.1600 N. Cahuenga. L-D Daily 323/461-5001. American $$

PRICE KEY

$ - under $20
$$ - $21–30
$$$ - $31–40
$$$$ - $40+

WHERE TO EAT

HONEY

Nestled into the lobby of The Avalon sits an indulgent dining experience aptly named Honey. Chandelier-drenched and leather-clad, the intimate restaurant is Hollywood excess in every sense without the devastating price tag. Enjoy such delights as New Orleans-style crab cakes or Baba Ganoush to start. The entrée to absolutely not miss is the Seared Goat Cheese Stuffed Chicken over Grilled Prosciutto wrapped Asparagus in a Marsala wine reduction. It’s utter heaven that embodies the sheer luxury of the sexy late-night bistro. Later in the evening, the restaurant converts to a lounge atmosphere serving small plates and other favorites for the professional night owl to feast upon. 1733 N. Vine St D Nightly 323/462-3000 American $$ — VICTORIA LANE