These restaurants exemplify New American and sustainable elements, and are tried and tested by writers, editors, and staff

BY JULIANA PESEVANTO AND PEARL BARRACLOUGH

Adobe Restaurant & Lounge
For all you wine lovers out there, check out Santa Monica’s Adobe restaurant. They boast an extensive wine list with over 120 different labels, some biodynamic and organic, from across the globe. Adobe’s cuisine has a contemporary American flavor, complemented by the restaurant’s delightful décor. Designed by Franklin Studios, Adobe uses calming, earthy tones and the restaurant’s outside seating area is filled with luscious banana trees. Each day of the week boasts a different exciting menu. Tues.-Thurs. is Chef Dominique Crenn’s seven-course “Chef’s Choice” tasting menu. The “Seven ‘til Seven” menu runs Mon.-Fri. serving cocktails and appetizers for just seven bucks each. A late night supper menu is available until 1 a.m. on Fri. and Sat.
1541 OCEAN AVE. • 310/394-3463. • $$$

Amaranta Cocina
Amaranta Cocina provides a dining experience that will transport you to a different world by mixing the diverse regional cuisine of Mexico with a vibrant, stylish environment. A seasonal menu with fresh ingredients offer flavorful, sophisticated tastes far from that at a typical Mexican restaurant. Amaranta takes it a step further with its vibrant design. The walls splashed with pink and burgundy, the booths elaborate and vividly upholstered. For those who choose not to experience the unique meal that is Amaranta, guests can eat on the run with a To-Go store that provides freshly prepared meals. But be sure to come back for the once a month tequila tasting where you can choose from the over 400 different kinds that the restaurant offers.
6600 TOPANGA CANYON BLVD. • L-D DAILY • 818/610-3599 • MEXICAN • $$

The Bistro at the Chamberlain
The Bistro offers a new take on traditional bistro dining under the tutelage of Chef de Cuisine Peter Gobin. Gobin creates a seasonal menu combining American and California cuisines, which bring the fare to exciting new heights. The soothing décor of teals and blues will relax you whether you enjoy your meal in one of the buttery leather booths or outside in the patio shaded by banana palms. You would never know that this quiet oasis is a mere two blocks from Sunset Strip. Although the wines by the glass will nicely compliment your meal, we recommend switching it up with the Bistro’s unique selection of beers that Gobin finds himself.
1000 WESTMONT DR. • B-L-D DAILY • 310/657-7400 • CALIFORNIA • $$$

The Beach on Sunset
This two-story swanky spot atop Sunset Strip features a VIP lounge, private cabanas, and three dining areas. The menu boasts both small and large plate dining but be sure to save room for the specialty oversized drink menu, some large as 60 oz.! All of the small plate options are $5 to $9 and include an impressive list of options from blackened filet mignon tacos to grilled cheese sandwiches. To make a whole night of The Beach, dine on the second-level patio gazing at the Los Angeles skyline, then stay for drinks, dancing and live music at the VIP lounge. Don’t miss The Beach’s brunch buffet served on the weekends 11 a.m. to 2 p.m. Weekday happy hour is from 4 p.m. to 8 p.m. with all drinks two-for-one.
8240 W. SUNSET BLVD. • B WEEKENDS, D NIGHTLY • 323/654-8100 • AMERICAN • $$$

Bloom Café
Bloom Café goes out of their way to make sure the freshest products are on your plate and are committed to using ingredients from local organic farms with eco-friendly seafood, meat, and eggs. The green and white minimalist décor adds to the healthy dining feel whether you choose to sit inside in the colorful chairs at the bamboo tabletops or outside at the sidewalk tables with aluminum garden chairs. Favorites include the 2 + 2 + 2 breakfast, the mozzarella and tapenade tartine sandwich for lunch, and the Comte cheese and potato pizza for dinner. Started by two experienced French restaurateurs Arnaud Palatan of Pastis and Jean Louis Bartoli of Louis XIV, the café offers a laid-back and friendly dining experience and is open until 10 p.m. Tuesday through Sunday. Bloom also serves breakfast until 4 p.m. for those who like to start their day a little later than average.
5544 W. PICO BLVD. • B-L-D DAILY • 323/934-6900 • CALIFORNIA • $

Blue on Blue
This fresh, poolside-dining venue mixed with the savory, healthy, and contemporary menu creates a haute casual experience for anyone who happens to frequent Blue on Blue. Cushioned lounge chairs surrounding an outdoor pool provide an urban oasis to dine and discuss the latest Beverly Hills happenings. Located in the luxurious Avalon Hotel, this modern restaurant embraces the magnificence of the hotel and twists it into a place more progressive. Even the pickiest of the picky eaters will find something that they will fall in love with on the extensive to-die-for menu. On Friday and Saturdays, diners can opts for the “Chef’s Table” menu – a four-course customized meal tailored to both the tastes and preferences of the guests and the availability of seasonal ingredients.
9400 W. OLYMPIC BLVD. • B-L-D DAILY • 310/407-7791 • NEW AMERICAN • $$$

Blue Velvet
This beautifully designed restaurant and bar, located in downtown Los Angeles, showcases an attractive poolside lounge featuring all the classic cocktails. Blue Velvet’s wine list is globally inspired and a wide selection of wine is offered by the glass. The two dining areas: “Blue Lounge” and “Cloud Room” feature slick, contemporary designs and offer skyline views of Los Angeles. Blue Velvet is located at “The Flat”—a recently renovated holiday inn now comprised of 205 apartments that appeal to young professionals. The restaurant’s contemporary cuisine is represented by a variety of classic dishes. Poolside bites are offered Mon. through Sun. 4-10 p.m. weekly and 2-10 p.m. at the weekends. Whether it be dinner, drinks, or a lounge by the pool, Blue Velvet has it all.
750 GARLAND AVE. • 213/239-0061 • $$$

Catch
Catch presents innovative “market fresh” cuisine at it’s finest. The stunning view of the sunset from the spectacular location three stories above the beach with floor to ceiling windows mixed with the pleasing presentation of the plates will leave both your eyes and palate satisfied. In the center of the restaurant lies the sushi bar adorned with mother of pearl tiles, where the talented Executive Chef Michael Reardon combines both traditional and not-so-traditional ingredients to form innovative crudo, sushi, and sashimi creations. The regular menu boasts the best of the best fresh catches. Enjoy your seafood while gazing at a gorgeous sea view.
1910 OCEAN WAY IN SANTA MONICA • L-D DAILY • 310/581-5533 • SEAFOOD • $$$$

Eleven Restaurant
Eleven, housed in the grandiose, theatrical building that was once a bank and then a recording studio, boasts both innovative décor and cuisine. The menu features a contemporary and eclectic twist on classic American eats which are complemented by the vast variety of wines from around the world. Executive Chef Vincent Manna draws from many different avenues to keep the menu exciting and fresh. Grab a drink from the mosaic-tiled bar on the main level, then saunter up the glass and marble staircase to the mezzanine to enjoy your food peacefully and catch a glimpse at your fellow high-class diners. After 11 p.m. the restaurant changes into a nightclub.
8811 SANTA MONICA BLVD. • D TUES-SUN • 310/855-0800 • CALIFORNIA $$$

Grace
Being one of L.A.’s perennial favorites, Grace restaurant has so much to offer and indeed, with so much grace. This environmentally friendly restaurant is co-run by four partners who strive to provide the ultimate dining experience. With an emphasis on producing local and organic food, Chef Neal Fraser draws inspiration from his discoveries at farmers markets and does what he can to provide everything Southern California has to offer. Grace holds a variety of weekly and nightly events where specialty menus are compiled, including their all-local “Close to Home” tasting menu. Check out their delicious thanksgiving menu or one of their exclusive burger or doughnut nights during the week.
7360 BEVERLY BLVD. • 323/934-4400 • $$$

Luna Park
Luna Park mixes a cozy atmosphere with a trendy ambiance. The new chef, Todd Butler, is dedicated to constantly inventing a seasonal, fresh menu and focused on finding ingredients from local farmers markets. This restaurant takes both food and drinks seriously with creative creations, such as the warm goat cheese fondue, short ribs with a pear and shiitake mushroom glaze, and one-of-a-kind drinks like the volcano scorpion bowl for two. Choose to sit at the bar, a table, or in private booths with closable curtains to make your experience more intimate.
672 S LA BREA AVE. • L-D DAILY • 323/934-2110 • AMERICAN • $$

Mark’s Restaurant
The top-notch, ever-changing New American menu at Mark’s is sure to keep you both satisfied and entertained. Upon arrival, you will instantly feel comfortable in this elegant yet informal setting. The walls are painted a soothing green and are decorated with contrasting orange and yellow paintings. Choose from a wide variety of delectables from their Japanese Pumpkin Kabocha Ravioli to Chef Wayne’s Turkey Meatloaf. The Trio of Tastes is a favorite for starters. In addition to their amazing eats, Mark’s offers a variety of specials throughout the week. On Dish It Out Mondays everything is half price. Sunday is Fine Wines Nights offering half price wines.
861 N. LA CIENEGA BLVD. • D NIGHTLY • 310/652-5252 • CALIFORNIA • $$$

Melrose Bar & Grill
Melrose Bar & Grill takes simple foods and adds an extra flair to make for a casual and relaxed dining environment. The earth-toned atmosphere with booths and wooden banquettes surrounding an open kitchen make for a perfect place to unwind and enjoy a meal. This is the perfect place to go for both that much needed after-work drink and dinner that will calm your nerves after a long day with the wide variety of innovative comfort foods. The typical favorite meal starts with the warm pretzel and sausage with mustard, moving on to the duck burger or one of their delicious pizzas, and finishing with the cheesecake.
8826 MELROSE AVE. • L M-F, D M-S • 310/278-3684 • CALIFORNIA • $$

Mirabelle
Located on the infamous Sunset Strip, Mirabelle, a classic Hollywood landmark, was the name given to this restaurant in honor of its transformation into fine dining in the 1970s. The popular family-run Mirabelle has impressed its customers for decades with its Mediterranean-inspired cuisine; what was once a hamburger stand is now a sophisticated dining bistro. Mirabelle’s new executive chef, Darrin Francek, has spiced up the restaurant’s classic bistro with a fresh twist on New American fare. He aims to introduce the original Mirabelle client to something more exciting and multicultural. Francek has worked among some of the country’s most reputable chefs and his talent lies in using a fusion of versatile ingredients. Serving dinner, lunch and brunch, Mirabelle restaurant also offers banquet rooms and weekly happy hours. If you ever find yourself on The Strip, this is one to check out.
8768 SUNSET BLVD. • 310/659-6022 • $$

Napa Valley Grill
Hollywood meets Wine Country at Napa Valley Grille in Westwood Village. This restaurant strives to create a dining experience as close to the wine country’s setting as possible. The main dining room boasts floral displays, wine artifact pieces, and an exhibition kitchen. The extensive wine list is exclusive to California-produced wines and Executive Chef Joseph Gillard brings a special touch to the Napa-inspired menu by using the best seasonal and farmers’ market ingredients. In the summer months, enjoy the pretty outdoor patio area and the bar section of the restaurant is perfect for small groups wanting to sample the wine selections.
1100 GLENDON AVE. • 310/824-3322. • $$$$

ONE Sunset
This hip, sultry spot is more than just a restaurant. ONE Sunset features top DJs nightly and a full menu available until 1 a.m. As the night progresses, the scene gets livelier proving that this place truly does it all with a respectable menu and flavorful after-dinner entertainment. Chef Chris Ennis knows how to please a tough, energetic crowd with favorites such as lobster and goat cheese quesadillas, and caramelized osso bucco lettuce cups, and also capitalizes on the new shared-plate dining trend. After eating, take advantage of the DJ and the lounge setting. Stay for after-dinner drinks and dancing.
8730 SUNSET BLVD. • D NIGHTLY • 310/657-0111 • NEW AMERICAN • $$$$

Perla
Located on the mezzanine floor of the newly renovated Sheraton Delfina Hotel, Perla Restaurant has a sophistication of its own. The lounge section of the restaurant overlooks the pool area and serves cocktails and small bites—the restaurant serves breakfast and dinner only. Located in Santa Monica, this sophisticated restaurant is ideal for breakfast, dinner, or a light lunch by the sparkling pool. Chef James Bailey serves modern American cuisine and utilizes fresh, locally produced ingredients. His culinary concept is centered on working with simple and seasonal ingredients and is inspired by his southern upbringing. Choose from a plated dinner option, a traditional buffet, or reception stations filled with an enticing variety of cuisines.
530 W. PICO BLVD. • 310/399-9344 • $$$

Republic
The over-the-top lavish setting that is Republic includes a banquette seating around a fireplace, a 20-foot waterfall, and a towering wine cellar. Needless to say, the menu accompanies the profuseness of the décor. Steakhouse fare is the most popular choice among guests at this contemporary hot spot. On weekdays the restaurant closes at 11 p.m. but a nothing-short-of-fabulous bar menu is available until 1 a.m. After you finish your meal, move to the bar opposite the dining room to stay for drinks and people-watching.
650 N. LA CIENEGA BLVD. • D NIGHTLY • 310/360-7070 • NEW AMERICAN • $$$$

Whist at the Viceroy
Whist, serving familiar foods with a twist for breakfast, lunch, and dinner is constantly developing new creations. Executive Chef Warren Schwartz makes a point to maintain a unique and clever menu, as most ingredients are local and seasonal. The décor of the restaurant perfectly matches the feel of the food: classic and fresh at the same time. The walls are covered with fine china plates, the seating arrangements versatile as one can opt to sink into a large leather booth or dine in a private cabana. You may have trouble choosing from the variety of compelling dishes that make up the Whist menu. Want to learn how chef Warren Schwartz does it? He offers quarterly cooking classes where he shares trade secrets on preparing the perfect meals.
1819 OCEAN AVE. • B-L-D DAILY • 310/260-7511 • AMERICAN • $$$$

Soul Food

How New American and sustainable cuisines and some progressive chefs have reinvented the dining landscape of Los Angeles

BY RICHARD ANDREOLI

Two trends have recently dominated Southern California’s restaurant scene: menus featuring New American Cuisine and chefs using more local, sustainable, artisanal, and organic ingredients in their recipes. Initially these seemed like simple fads. There was a kitschy novelty to enjoying $20 bowls of mac and cheese (with truffle oil and lobster to erase any white trash sensibilities) and a self-importance to eating organic salad even if you didn’t know what that really meant. However, after more than three years, restaurants are continuing to reinvent the definition of New American dining and nearly every high-end eatery is making a concerted effort to prepare their meals using these specialized products. The fad, it seems, is now the norm.
New American Cuisine is traditionally defined as taking classic American dishes and giving them an upscale twist; consider the Kobe beef hot dogs at Ketchup as one example. From homey and rustic restaurants to upscale spaces with highly stylized plating, “It’s all about comfort and familiarity,” says executive chef Joseph Gillard at Napa Valley Grille in Westwood. “These dishes are definitely approachable, and people know what to expect.”
This doesn’t mean New American dishes are simply expensive meat and potatoes. Indeed, items often range from inexpensive comfort foods to innovative combinations, and yet they all fit within this category. This is because each chef uses his or her own culinary background and techniques to transform those family staples and surprise the customer.
“Everyone wants you to classify what you do, and New American is the one category that is the least definable,” explains Kris Morningstar, executive chef at Blue Velvet downtown. “For instance, we’ve done a squab crepinette with cornbread puree, mustard greens, and cipollini onions with a little sweet and sour sauce. That’s reminiscent of a Southern Barbecue. What we’re looking to do is hone in on some flavor profiles you recognize and reorganize them in a way that’s more interesting.”
Part of these differing interpretations stems from the inability to define what is American. This is a country of immigrants and diners now have more sophisticated palettes. We’re willing to try new dishes from other cultures and quickly assimilate those ingredients into our own cooking. Take the avocado, which only 20 years ago was considered exotic but is now a staple in everything from burgers to omelettes.
“That’s why the term New American essentially gives you free reign,” says Morningstar. “It just says you’re using the large variety of products that are being made available to you.”
To understand this wealth of products, one need look no further than the farmers markets throughout Los Angeles. From Mexican-American owned farms specializing in heirloom tomatoes and eggplants to Asian-American purveyors of Japanese spinach or Chinese broccoli, it’s clear that California is blessed with a bountiful selection. These once-foreign items have become local staples, but only to chefs who investigate these small operations because larger farms won’t grow such select produce.
This isn’t a new discovery. For years, pioneers like Alice Waters and Wolfgang Puck championed this concept of farm-to-table cuisine, which is when ingredients purchased directly from local farmers influence a chef’s menu. It has, however, caught on among many chefs and now includes using items that are also organic, sustainable, or artisan crafted.
“It’s so important to eat local and organic,” says Terri Wahl, owner of Auntie Em’s in Eagle Rock, which specializes in American comfort food. “The quality and flavor of the food is so much fresher than what you find in a typical grocery store. It’s also super important to support the farmers that work so hard, so that they can continue growing this good product.”
Having been raised on a farm, Gillard agrees, and like most proponents of farm-to-table cooking he tries to purchase his organic produce within 150-miles of his restaurant. This decision also means less fuel used in transportation of product and an overall reduction in his restaurant’s carbon footprint. But like Chef Morningstar, Gillard doesn’t have the time to do the shopping himself.
“I go to a farmers market every Sunday on my day off, but I [also] rely on professional buyers,” Gillard says. These skilled foragers maintain close relationships with nearby farmers and can find the ingredients chefs want, inform them about new discoveries, and offer advice when products aren’t up to snuff. “Obviously that means my menu needs to be flexible if I want really good product, so it’s an interesting relationship,” says Gillard. “But I feel strongly about supporting the farmers. I’m really all about that.”
For smaller restaurateurs like Wahl, that direct connection with farmers is still possible. “It’s a lot of frickin’ work,” she says about personally shopping for her restaurant and catering business. “But [these] farmers are awesome. They know their product. They know what it tastes like, they know what’s best. I love cooking, but buying at the farmers’ market is my favorite two hours of the whole week. It’s just special.”
It’s also expensive, but diners who understand the difference in taste are willing to pay for organic and artisanal foods. “Because of The Food Network, food magazines and publications, people are wanting to try different foods more and more,” Gillard observes. “I think a lot of chefs really believe in using farm-fresh ingredients now. It really appeals to anybody who’s very passionate and serious about cooking.”
To be clear, it’s difficult for restaurants to be 100% local and organic. While produce is abundant in California, certain meats often need to be shipped in from other locations. Even Blue Velvet, which was set up as a green-friendly restaurant and will eventually have a garden on the roof providing herbs and produce for the kitchen, can’t grow all of its own needs.
“It’s not a perfect system,” acknowledges Morningstar. “But the effort is what we really focus on. That increases the quality of the product and ultimately aids the environment.”
While there’s no direct connection between New American Cuisine and the use of local/organic ingredients, the two areas do merge quite nicely in California. Perhaps it’s a combination of our health-obsessed culture and an appreciation for the comfort we feel when eating classic dishes. Or perhaps these are merely fads started by chefs who knew they could bring customers in and score positive press in the process. But as Wahl says, “Whatever the reason, good for them. I’m just glad people are doing it.”

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HELPFUL TERMS (Thanks to wikipedia.com):
Organic foods are produced according to standards established by the US Government. For crops, it means they were grown without the use of conventional pesticides, artificial fertilizers, human waste, or sewage sludge, and that they were processed without ionizing radiation or food additives. For animals, it means they were reared without the routine use of antibiotics and without the use of growth hormones. In most countries, organic produce must not be genetically modified.

Sustainable agriculture refers to the ability of a farm to produce food indefinitely, without causing irreversible damage to ecosystem health.

Biodynamic® agriculture is a method of organic farming that treats farms as unified and individual organisms, emphasizing balancing the holistic-development and interrelationship of the soil, plants, animals as a closed, self-nourishing system. It includes emphasis on manures and composts and exclusion of the use of artificial chemicals on soil and plants. Methods unique to the biodynamic approach include the use of fermented herbal and mineral preparations as compost additives and field sprays, and the use of a astronomical calendar to determine times of planting and harvesting. —R.A.

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Dining Addendum
PRICE KEY
$ - under $20
$$ - $21–30
$$$ - $31–40
$$$$ - $40+

Anna's Italian Restaurant
10929 W. Pico Blvd., Los Angeles
310/474.0102
Daily Lunch/Dinner
Italian Cuisine
$

Café Marco
8200 Santa Monica Blvd., West Hollywood
323/650-7742
Daily 6A-10P
Gourmet Coffee and Pastries
$

Electric Karma
8222 1/2 W 3rd St., Los Angeles
323/653-2121
Daily Lunch/Dinner
Indian Cuisine
$$

Fabiolus Café
6270 Sunset Blvd., Hollywood
323/467-2882
Daily Lunch/Dinner
Italian Cuisine
$$

Flavor of India
9045 Santa Monica Blvd., West Hollywood
310/274-1715
Daily Lunch/Dinner
Indian Cuisine
$$

Flying Leap Café
2538 Hyperion Blvd., Silver Lake
323/661-0618
Daily Dinner
Weekend Brunch
American Cuisine
$$

Fritzie’s Pasta & Grill
323-664-7979
2630 Hyperion Ave., Silver Lake
Open Tues - Sat Lunch/Dinner
$$

Gyu-Kaku Restaurant
163 N. La Cienega Blvd., Beverly Hills
310/659-5760
Daily Dinner Only
Japanese BBQ Cuisine
$$$

Hamburger Mary's
8288 Santa Monica Blvd West Hollywood
323/654-3800
Daily Lunch/Dinner
American Cuisine
$

Hamlet on Sunset
9201 Sunset Blvd., West Hollywood
310/278-4924
Daily Lunch/Dinner
American Cuisine
$

Marcos Trattoria
8136 Santa Monica Blvd., West Hollywood
323/650-2771 Daily 8A-10P
Daily Breakfast/Lunch/Dinner
Italian Cuisine
$$

Mark's
861 N. La Cienega Blvd., West Hollywood
310/652-5252
Daily Dinner
Sunday Brunch
Continental Cuisine
$$

Pane e Vino
8265 Beverly Blvd., West Hollywood
323/651-4600
Daily Lunch/Dinner
Italian Cuisine
$$

Quality Food and Beverage
8030 W 3rd St., West Hollywood
323/658-5959
Daily Breakfast/Lunch
American Cuisine
$

Rosalind's Ethiopian Restaurant
1044 S Fairfax Ave., Los Angeles
323/936-2486
Daily Lunch/Dinner/Late Night
$$

Warszawa
1414 Lincoln Blvd., Santa Monica
310/393-8831
Dinner Tues - Sun
Polish Cuisine
$$